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2018 Dodge Durango
2018 Dodge Durango
Pursuit - V8 5.7L
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2018 Dodge Durango Front Pads and Rotors

2018 Dodge Durango Front Pads and Rotors

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Durango (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, lug nut torque spec, and pad/rotor installation walkthrough

How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Durango (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, lug nut torque spec, and pad/rotor installation walkthrough

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Durango - Front Brake Service (Pads/Rotors)

On your Durango, a front brake job usually means replacing the front brake pads, and sometimes the rotors (the metal discs) if they’re worn, grooved, or below minimum thickness. The exact steps and torque specs depend on which front brake package you have (standard vs performance/Brembo-style calipers).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the Durango on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • đź§Ż Brake dust is irritating—wear a dust mask and use brake cleaner (don’t blow with compressed air).
  • 🔥 Brakes get extremely hot—let everything cool before touching.
  • đź§Ş Brake fluid damages paint—cover fenders and wipe spills immediately.
  • 🔩 Never let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a caliper hanger hook.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lb range)
  • Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
  • Metric socket set (10mm-24mm)
  • Metric wrench set (10mm-24mm)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Ratchet (1/2" drive)
  • C-clamp (6" minimum)
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Wire brush
  • Bungee cord or caliper hanger hook
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin boot/grease kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use your breaker bar and metric socket set).
  • Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s very full, plan to remove a little fluid (a turkey baster works) so it doesn’t overflow when you push the pistons back.
  • Two quick questions so I can give you exact torque specs and the correct caliper steps:
    • Are you replacing pads only, or pads + rotors?
    • Can you upload a clear photo of one front caliper (outer face)? I’m checking whether it’s the standard caliper or a Brembo/performance-style caliper.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Lift the front at the proper jacking point using your floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Set the Durango onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

  • Remove lug nuts using your metric socket set (10mm-24mm) and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • After reinstalling wheels later, Torque lug nuts to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs) using your torque wrench (20-200 ft-lb range).

Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not stress the hose)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work.
  • Remove the caliper fasteners using your metric socket set (10mm-24mm) and ratchet (3/8" drive).
  • Lift the caliper off the pads/rotor and hang it using a bungee cord or caliper hanger hook.
  • Don’t let the caliper hang.

Step 4: Remove pads and hardware

  • Remove the old pads from the bracket.
  • Remove the pad clips/hardware using a flat blade screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the pad ears slide) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (if replacing rotors)

  • If you’re replacing rotors, remove the caliper bracket bolts using your breaker bar (1/2" drive) and metric socket set (10mm-24mm).
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • Torque note: Bracket bolt torque depends on the caliper package—once you confirm standard vs performance caliper, I’ll give you the exact spec to use.

Step 6: Remove/replace the rotor (if needed)

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If it’s stuck from rust, spray hub/hat area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat lightly (use the palm of your hand; avoid hitting wheel studs).
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flush.
  • Install the new rotor.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston(s)

  • Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level.
  • Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) (a tool that pushes the piston(s) back evenly) or a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston(s) fully back.
  • Go slow so you don’t overflow the reservoir.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install the new pad clips/hardware from your brake pad hardware kit.
  • Reinstall pads into the bracket, confirming they slide smoothly on the clips.
  • If you have new slide pin grease, apply a thin coat where appropriate (avoid getting any grease on pad friction material or rotor face).

Step 9: Reinstall bracket and caliper

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket using your metric socket set (10mm-24mm) and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
  • Tighten fasteners using your torque wrench (20-200 ft-lb range).
  • Torque note: I’ll provide the exact caliper/bracket torque specs as soon as you confirm pads-only vs pads+rotors and upload the caliper photo.

Step 10: Repeat on the other front side

  • Do the same steps on the other front wheel.
  • Always replace pads in pairs.

Step 11: Pump the brake pedal

  • Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
  • This seats the pistons back against the pads.

âś… After Repair

  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
  • Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
  • Do a slow test drive in a safe area and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • If you installed new pads and rotors, do 6–10 gentle stops from 30–10 mph, with cool-down time between stops. Avoid hard stops at first.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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