How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2014 Honda Crosstour
Step-by-step DIY front brake job with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2014 Honda Crosstour
Step-by-step DIY front brake job with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs




đź”§ Crosstour - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
You’ll be replacing the front brake pads and rotors on your Crosstour, then reassembling everything to factory-tightness so the brakes work smoothly and quietly. New rotors are important when the old ones are worn, warped, or grooved—new pads on bad rotors can cause vibration and poor stopping.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the Crosstour with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- 🛑 Brakes may be hot; let components cool before touching.
- 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- 🛑 Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
- 🛑 Turn steering wheel carefully when a caliper is off (don’t stress the hose).
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) x2
- Wheel chocks x2
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Lug nut socket 19mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8"
- Torque wrench 1/2"
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Socket 12mm
- Socket 17mm
- Box wrench 12mm
- Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- C-clamp 6"
- Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
- Wire brush (hand)
- Rubber mallet
- Bungee cord
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
- Brake cleaner spray
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin boots (if torn) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake anti-squeal compound (optional) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm lug socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Don’t remove the cap yet, but be aware the level may rise when you compress the caliper piston.
- “Caliper piston” is the round plunger that squeezes the pads.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the Crosstour at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) x2 placed at the front support points.
- Verify stability by gently rocking the vehicle before you work.
Step 2: Remove the front wheels
- Remove lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Remove both front wheels and set them aside.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
- Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty) or bungee cord.
- Never hang the caliper by the rubber brake hose.
Step 4: Remove old brake pads and hardware
- Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket using the flathead screwdriver (medium).
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Set the bracket aside.
- On reassembly: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the old rotor
- If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub/rotor center area with brake cleaner spray and wait a minute.
- Tap the rotor hat (the flat “drum” area) with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
- Remove the rotor.
Step 7: Clean the hub surface (prevents brake shake)
- Use a wire brush (hand) to clean rust from the wheel hub face where the rotor sits.
- Spray with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.
- A clean hub helps prevent steering wheel vibration.
Step 8: Install the new rotor
- Clean both sides of the new rotor using brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
- To hold it in place, hand-thread two lug nuts backward (flat side inward) and snug them using a 19mm lug nut socket (do not fully tighten).
Step 9: Service the slide pins and install new pad hardware
- Remove the slide pins from the caliper bracket by hand (if tight, twist and pull).
- Wipe old grease off and inspect the boots. If torn, replace using slide pin boots.
- Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to each pin and reinstall them.
- Install new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) to seat them fully if needed.
- “Slide pins” let the caliper move evenly.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the new rotor.
- Install the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8", then tighten with a torque wrench 1/2".
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
- Use a C-clamp 6" to slowly compress the piston until it bottoms out.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood; if it rises near the top, remove a little fluid (do not overfill).
Step 12: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new pads into the bracket. If using it, apply brake anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates only (not the friction surface).
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Hold the slide pin with a box wrench 12mm if it spins.
- On reassembly: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Repeat on the other front side
- Repeat Steps 3 through 12 on the remaining front wheel.
Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Snug lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), then final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench 1/2".
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
âś… After Repair
- With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm (it may drop slightly with power assist).
- Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (do not overfill).
- Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or steering wheel shake.
- Pad bedding (break-in): Make 8–10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, allowing short cool-down driving between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$870 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
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