🔧 Accord - Power Steering Pump Replacement

Your Accord’s power steering pump creates the hydraulic pressure that makes steering easy. If it’s leaking, whining, or losing assist, replacing the pump (and its sealing washers/O-rings) restores proper pressure and stops fluid loss.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧤 Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of belts and pulleys.
• 🛑 Never start the engine with tools near the serpentine belt.
• 🧯 Power steering fluid is slippery—clean spills immediately to avoid slips.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be working close to the alternator area: remove negative terminal first.
• 🛞 If you raise the front wheels for bleeding, always support the car on jack stands.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Shop rags
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm flare nut wrench
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers
• Pliers
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Funnel

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering pump inlet O-ring - Qty: 1
• Power steering pressure line sealing washers (crush washers) - Qty: 2
• Honda power steering fluid - Qty: 2 quarts
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 (optional, if cracked or soaked)
• Return hose clamp - Qty: 1 (optional, if original is weak)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Turn the steering wheel so the front wheels point straight ahead.
• Place a drain pan under the pump/hoses area to catch fluid.
• If you’ll lift the front end for easier bleeding, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove access components

• Open the hood and locate the power steering pump and reservoir.
• If needed for room, remove the air intake duct/resonator using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver (for clamps).
• Wipe dirt off hose connections with shop rags so debris doesn’t enter the system.

Step 2: Relieve belt tension and remove the serpentine belt from the pump pulley

• Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) on the belt tensioner to rotate it and relieve tension. A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle made for tight spaces.
• Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Tip: Take a quick photo of the belt routing before removal.

Step 3: Drain the reservoir and disconnect the return hose

• Place the drain pan under the return hose connection.
• Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back on the return hose, then twist/pull the hose off the pump/reservoir fitting using pliers as needed.
• Let fluid drain into the pan. Cap/plug the hose end with a clean rag to reduce dripping.

Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line from the pump

• Clean around the pressure fitting with shop rags.
• If your Accord uses a flare-nut style fitting, loosen it using a 17mm flare nut wrench. A flare nut wrench wraps more sides to prevent rounding.
• If your Accord uses a banjo fitting, remove the banjo bolt using the correct metric socket. A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that fluid flows through.
• Capture fluid in the drain pan and remove/replace the sealing washers (crush washers).

Step 5: Unbolt and remove the power steering pump

• Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" extension.
• Lift the pump out carefully, watching for remaining fluid.

Step 6: Transfer fittings and replace the inlet O-ring

• If the new pump does not include the inlet fitting, move it over using the correct metric socket or wrench.
• Replace the power steering pump inlet O-ring (lightly coat it with fresh Honda power steering fluid before installing).
• Tip: Don’t reuse old O-rings or crush washers—they commonly leak.

Step 7: Install the new pump

• Position the pump and start all mounting bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Tighten mounting bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 24 N·m (18 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the pressure line and return hose

• Reconnect the pressure line:
  • For flare fitting: thread it in by hand first, then tighten with a 17mm flare nut wrench to snug plus a small additional turn. Do not over-tighten.
  • For banjo fitting: install new crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting), then tighten the banjo bolt with a torque wrench: Torque to 34 N·m (25 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect the return hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.

Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt correctly and use the serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the tensioner.
• Slip the belt fully onto the pump pulley and confirm it’s seated in all pulley grooves.

Step 10: Reinstall removed intake pieces

• Reinstall the intake duct/resonator using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Wipe any spilled fluid with shop rags.

Step 11: Refill and bleed the power steering system

• Fill the reservoir to the MAX line using a funnel and Honda power steering fluid.
• Engine OFF bleed:
  • If front wheels are off the ground, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10-15 times.
  • Keep fluid level above MIN; top off as needed using the funnel.
• Engine ON bleed:
  • Start the engine and let it idle. Do not rev.
  • Slowly turn lock-to-lock 5-10 times. Listen for whining and watch for foaming.
  • Shut off, wait 2 minutes, recheck level, and top off.
• Tip: If fluid foams, let it sit 15 minutes.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine idling, inspect the pressure connection and return hose for leaks using a flashlight and shop rags.
• Verify the belt runs smoothly and stays centered on pulleys.
• Test drive at low speed first. Confirm steering is smooth, quiet, and consistent.
• Recheck the fluid level after the test drive and top off if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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