🔧 Outback - Strut Replacement

On your Outback, the strut is the main suspension unit that supports the vehicle, controls bouncing, and keeps the tire planted on the road. Replacing worn struts restores ride control and helps prevent uneven tire wear and clunking over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (one axle), 6-10 hours (all four)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle on jack stands; never work under a jack.
• ⚠️ If you are not installing complete “quick-strut” assemblies, you must compress the spring with a spring compressor; an uncompressed spring can cause severe injury.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire relaxed; do not let the knuckle hang by the hose/wire.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, you need a 4-wheel alignment to prevent pulling and tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• Socket set 10mm-22mm (3/8" and 1/2")
• Wrench set 10mm-22mm
• Pry bar 18"
• Hammer 2 lb
• Punch set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external, pair) (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Strut top mount nuts - Qty: 6 (front) / Qty: 4 (rear)
• Strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts - Qty: 4 per axle
• Sway bar end link nuts - Qty: 2 per axle

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks on the opposite end you’re lifting.
• 🔧 Decide your parts approach: Quick-strut (complete unit) is the safest/easiest. If you reuse the spring/top mount, you’ll need a spring compressor (a clamp tool that squeezes the spring shorter).
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut-to-knuckle hardware before loosening; this helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway link hardware 10–20 minutes before removal.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which struts you’re replacing

• Are we doing front, rear, or all four struts on your Outback?
• Are you installing quick-strut assemblies or transferring the spring onto a new strut?

Step 2: Lift and secure the vehicle

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with the vehicle on the ground.
• Use a floor jack to lift the correct jacking point, then support with jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using the 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 3 (Front): Disconnect lines and the sway link from the strut

• Use a socket set 10mm-14mm to remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut body (if equipped with brackets).
• Use a wrench set 14mm-19mm to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut tab.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a wrench.

Step 4 (Front): Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Mark the bolt positions using a paint marker.
• Use a socket set 19mm-22mm and breaker bar to remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts at the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 18" as needed to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Support the knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose.

Step 5 (Front): Remove the top mount nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood.
• Use a socket set 12mm-14mm to remove the strut top mount nuts at the strut tower.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut, then guide the strut out.

Step 6 (Rear): Access the rear strut top mount nuts

• Open the rear hatch.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the necessary cargo trim panels to access the rear strut top nuts.
• Use a socket set 12mm-14mm to loosen (but not fully remove yet) the rear top nuts.

Step 7 (Rear): Disconnect lines and remove the rear strut lower bolt(s)

• At the wheel well, use a socket set 10mm-14mm to remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut.
• Use a socket set 17mm-19mm and breaker bar to remove the rear strut lower mounting bolt(s).
• Now fully remove the rear top nuts using a socket set 12mm-14mm, then remove the rear strut assembly.

Step 8: If not using quick-struts, transfer the spring (only if you’re trained/confident)

• Install the spring compressor (external, pair) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly using a socket set.
• When the spring is clearly loose in the seat, remove the strut shaft top nut using a socket set and wrench set (method varies by hardware).
• Transfer spring, isolators, and mount in the same orientation, then release compressors slowly and evenly.
• If anything feels sketchy, stop and use quick-struts.

Step 9: Install the new strut assembly (front or rear)

• Position the new strut into place and start the top nuts by hand using a socket set 12mm-14mm.
• Align the lower mount to the knuckle/control arm and insert bolts using a hammer 2 lb and punch set if needed.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set.
• Reinstall all brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket set 10mm-14mm.
• Final-tighten all fasteners using a torque wrench and torque to the Subaru factory specification for your Outback.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the vehicle using a floor jack, then final-torque lug nuts with a torque wrench and torque to the Subaru factory specification for your Outback.

---

✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Do a quick visual check that the brake hoses and ABS wires are routed correctly and not twisted.
• 🛣️ Test drive slowly first and listen for clunks; re-check any fasteners if something sounds off.
• 🧭 Get a 4-wheel alignment immediately. Tell the shop you replaced struts.
• 📷 If your Outback has driver-assist camera features, ask the alignment shop if any calibration checks are required after alignment.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor, depending on front/rear/all four)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts only, depending on quick-struts and how many)

You Save: $550-$800+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours per axle.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.