🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing a worn one fixes looseness, clunking, and uneven tire wear, but it will affect toe alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• Lift the front safely and support the car with jack stands under the proper front jack points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Do not turn the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected; it can damage the steering angle sensor/clock spring.
• If any fastener is heavily rusted, stop and use penetrating oil; forcing it can strip threads or break studs.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks (pair)
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 17mm socket
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park straight on level ground with the steering wheel centered.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (don’t remove them yet).
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the castle nut area; let it soak 5-10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheel

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the front with a floor jack and place jack stands securely.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the current tie rod position (so you can match it)

• Clean the threads at the jam nut area using a wire brush.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position relative to the threads/jam nut.
• Also count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end later (write it down).
• This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Loosen the jam nut (lock nut) using a 22mm open-end wrench by turning it counterclockwise.
• Only break it loose for now; don’t spin it far yet.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers (use side cutters if it’s stuck or deformed).
• Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the taper “pops” free. (A puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without damaging parts.)
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle near the stud with a hammer (16 oz) while the puller is tensioned.
• Do not hit the threaded stud directly.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting each full turn as you remove it.
• Note the turn count and/or line up your paint marker reference.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the exact same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs), then tighten slightly further as needed to align the cotter-pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over so it can’t back out.

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end using a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 19mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and gently turn lock-to-lock while stopped; listen for any clicking or binding.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and the car tracks straight.
• Get a professional alignment as soon as possible (tie rod replacement changes toe).
• Recheck for looseness or cotter pin security after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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