How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Honda Accord (MacPherson Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs + alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Honda Accord (MacPherson Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs + alignment notes


🔧 Accord - Front Strut Replacement
On your Accord, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock absorber built into a spring-and-mount assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and helps prevent uneven tire wear.
Quick check before we start: Are you replacing the front struts only, or did you also mean the rear (your Accord has rear shocks, not struts)?
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ If you are reusing the spring, a coil spring compressor is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
- ⚠️ Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire; support it to avoid damage.
- ⚠️ After strut replacement, a front wheel alignment is required.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm combination wrench
- 14mm combination wrench
- Hex key set (for sway bar link stud)
- Pry bar (18–24")
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies (complete “quick struts”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4
- Stabilizer (sway bar) end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- If using quick struts, you will NOT need to compress the spring. Safer for first-timers.
- If reusing the spring: a coil spring compressor is mandatory (it clamps the spring so it can’t “pop” apart).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the side pinch weld points.
- Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Unclip the ABS wire and brake hose from the strut
- Remove the brackets/fasteners using a 12mm socket (and flat trim tool for clips as needed).
- Move the hose/wire aside so they cannot be stretched while the strut comes out.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut using a 14mm socket and 14mm combination wrench.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key set while turning the nut.
- Reinstall later and Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the knuckle so it doesn’t drop using a floor jack (light support only).
- Spray nuts/bolts with penetrating oil.
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket, 17mm combination wrench, and breaker bar (1/2").
- During reassembly: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and remove the strut
- Open the hood and locate the three strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
- Remove the three nuts using a 14mm socket while holding the strut from below.
- Lift the strut out of the wheel well.
- During reassembly: Torque upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the new strut into the tower and hand-thread the three mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Align the strut-to-knuckle area to your paint marks, then install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench.
- Torque lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
- Torque upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect end link, hose bracket, and ABS wire
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm socket and hex key set as needed.
- Torque end link nut to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Double-check routing so nothing rubs the tire or gets pinched.
Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
✅ After Repair
- Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify the steering wheel returns to center.
- Recheck that ABS wire and brake hose are not twisted and have slack at full lock left/right.
- Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)
You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















