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2013 Honda Accord
2013 Honda Accord
Sport - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2017 Honda Accord

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2017 Honda Accord

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Honda Accord (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs + alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Honda Accord (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs + alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Front Strut Replacement

On your Accord, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock absorber built into a spring-and-mount assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and helps prevent uneven tire wear.

Quick check before we start: Are you replacing the front struts only, or did you also mean the rear (your Accord has rear shocks, not struts)?

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ If you are reusing the spring, a coil spring compressor is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire; support it to avoid damage.
  • ⚠️ After strut replacement, a front wheel alignment is required.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 14mm combination wrench
  • Hex key set (for sway bar link stud)
  • Pry bar (18–24")
  • Flat trim tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (complete “quick struts”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4
  • Stabilizer (sway bar) end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • If using quick struts, you will NOT need to compress the spring. Safer for first-timers.
  • If reusing the spring: a coil spring compressor is mandatory (it clamps the spring so it can’t “pop” apart).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the side pinch weld points.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Unclip the ABS wire and brake hose from the strut

  • Remove the brackets/fasteners using a 12mm socket (and flat trim tool for clips as needed).
  • Move the hose/wire aside so they cannot be stretched while the strut comes out.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut using a 14mm socket and 14mm combination wrench.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key set while turning the nut.
  • Reinstall later and Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the knuckle so it doesn’t drop using a floor jack (light support only).
  • Spray nuts/bolts with penetrating oil.
  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket, 17mm combination wrench, and breaker bar (1/2").
  • During reassembly: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and remove the strut

  • Open the hood and locate the three strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
  • Remove the three nuts using a 14mm socket while holding the strut from below.
  • Lift the strut out of the wheel well.
  • During reassembly: Torque upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

  • Position the new strut into the tower and hand-thread the three mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the strut-to-knuckle area to your paint marks, then install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench.
  • Torque lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
  • Torque upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect end link, hose bracket, and ABS wire

  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm socket and hex key set as needed.
  • Torque end link nut to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
  • Double-check routing so nothing rubs the tire or gets pinched.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

✅ After Repair

  • Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify the steering wheel returns to center.
  • Recheck that ABS wire and brake hose are not twisted and have slack at full lock left/right.
  • Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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