🔧 Outback - Power Steering Pump Replacement

The power steering pump makes the hydraulic pressure that helps you turn the steering wheel easily. Replacing it is mostly a “remove-and-reinstall” job, but cleanliness matters because any dirt in the system can damage the new pump.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧤 Let the engine cool before working near belts and pulleys.
• 🧯 Keep fingers, hair, and loose clothing away from the belt path.
• 🛑 Support the vehicle securely if you lift it; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔌 Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts near the alternator.
• 🧼 Keep hoses/fittings clean; cap lines to prevent contamination.
• 🧴 Power steering fluid is slippery and flammable—wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 2-quart)
• Shop rags
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pliers
• Line (flare nut) wrench 17mm
• Serpentine belt tool 14mm
• Power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty)
• Fluid transfer pump (hand pump)
• Funnel

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering pressure line crush washers - Qty: 2
• Power steering fluid (Dexron III / Subaru-approved ATF) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1
• Power steering return hose - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔌 Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• 🧴 Use a fluid transfer pump (hand pump) to suck old fluid from the reservoir into a drain pan (reduces mess).
• 🧼 Clean around the pump fittings with shop rags before opening any lines.
• 🔎 If your replacement pump does not include the pulley, plan to transfer the pulley using a power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the intake ducting for access

• Remove the plastic intake snorkel/clips using a flathead screwdriver and/or 10mm socket (as equipped).
• Set the ducting aside so you can clearly see the belt and pump area.

Step 2: Loosen the drive belt

• If your Outback uses a spring-loaded tensioner: place a 14mm serpentine belt tool (or 14mm socket with 3/8" ratchet) on the tensioner and rotate to relieve tension, then slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
• If your Outback uses a manual adjuster: loosen the lock bolt(s) with a 12mm socket/14mm socket, then back off the adjuster with the same tool until the belt can be removed.
• Tip: Snap a belt routing photo first.

Step 3: Disconnect the return hose at the reservoir

• Place a drain pan under the front of the engine bay.
• Use pliers to move the spring clamp back on the return hose.
• Twist and pull the return hose off the reservoir nipple by hand, and aim it into the drain pan.
• Plug the reservoir nipple with a clean rag to slow dripping.

Step 4: Disconnect the high-pressure line from the pump

• Put rags under the pump fitting.
• Use a line (flare nut) wrench 17mm to loosen the pressure fitting (a flare nut wrench grips more sides of the nut to prevent rounding).
• Once loose, finish by hand and carefully move the line aside without bending it sharply.

Step 5: Remove the power steering pump

• Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket (bolt sizes can vary by bracket location).
• Lift the pump out of the engine bay and drain any remaining fluid into the drain pan.

Step 6: Transfer the pulley (only if needed)

• Hold the pump securely (on a bench if possible) and use a power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty) to remove the pulley from the old pump.
• Use the same power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty) to press the pulley onto the new pump until it sits flush and aligned with the other pulleys.
• Tip: Misalignment will squeal and shred belts.

Step 7: Install the new pump

• Position the new pump and start all mounting bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 12mm socket/14mm socket, then Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reconnect the high-pressure line with new seals

• Install the line fitting and ensure any sealing washers/crush washers are replaced (where equipped) and seated correctly.
• Snug the fitting by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a line (flare nut) wrench 17mm and Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect the return hose

• Slide the return hose back onto the reservoir nipple fully.
• Install a new clamp (recommended) using pliers, positioned behind the nipple bead.

Step 10: Reinstall and tension the belt

• Route the belt according to your photo.
• If spring-loaded tensioner: rotate with a 14mm serpentine belt tool, slip the belt onto the pulley, then slowly release tension.
• If manual adjuster: tighten the adjuster with a 12mm socket/14mm socket to set tension, then tighten the lock bolt(s) and Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Refill and bleed the power steering system

• Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid (Dexron III / Subaru-approved ATF) using a funnel to the “COLD” mark.
• With the front wheels off the ground (use floor jack and jack stands), keep the engine OFF and turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock 10-15 times to push air out.
• Top off fluid as the level drops. Do not let it run dry.
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lock-to-lock a few more times while watching for foaming in the reservoir.
• If fluid foams, shut off engine, wait 10 minutes, and repeat until the fluid stays clear.

Step 12: Reinstall intake ducting and final check

• Reinstall the intake snorkel/ducting using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Wipe all fittings clean with shop rags.
• Start the engine and check carefully for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Verify the fluid level is at the correct mark when cold, then re-check after a short drive.
• 🧪 Listen for whining; a brief noise is normal, persistent whining means air is still trapped.
• 🛣️ Test drive at low speed first and confirm steering assist is smooth and consistent.
• 🧹 Recheck for leaks after the test drive and again the next day.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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