🔧 Outback - Power Steering Pump Replacement

On your Outback, the power steering pump is belt-driven and supplies hydraulic pressure to make steering easier. Replacement usually involves removing the drive belt, disconnecting the pressure/return lines, swapping the pump, then refilling and bleeding air out of the system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; belts/pulleys can burn or pinch.
• 🛑 Power steering fluid is slippery and flammable—wipe spills immediately and keep away from sparks.
• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not turn the steering to full lock and hold it—this can damage the new pump.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended when working near the belt/alternator area.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extensions (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• 10mm wrench
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• Line wrench set (10mm-17mm)
• Pliers
• Hose clamp pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Flashlight

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering fluid (Subaru-approved) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Power steering pump O-ring / seal kit - Qty: 1
• Crush washers for high-pressure banjo bolt - Qty: 2
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
• Return hose clamp - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the key from the vehicle.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• If you want easier bleeding later, raise the front and support it on jack stands (front wheels off the ground).
• Take photos before removing hoses.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove intake ducting for access

• Remove any engine cover (if equipped) using a 12mm socket.
• Loosen the air intake snorkel/duct clamps (if present) using a flathead screwdriver and move it aside.
• Unclip any plastic retainers using a trim clip tool.

Step 2: Drain as much power steering fluid as possible

• Place a drain pan under the pump/hoses.
• At the reservoir/return hose area, release the spring clamp using hose clamp pliers, then slide it back.
• Carefully pull the return hose off using pliers and aim it into the drain pan.
• Cap/plug the hose temporarily with a clean shop towel to reduce dripping.

Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt

• Relieve belt tension at the pump adjuster/lock hardware using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket (depending on fastener).
• Slip the belt off the pump pulley by hand once slack.
• If the belt is cracked/glazed, plan to replace it.

Step 4: Disconnect the pump hoses

• Clean around the fittings using shop towels to prevent dirt getting inside.
• Disconnect the high-pressure line at the pump using a line wrench set (10mm-17mm) (a line wrench grips more sides of the nut to reduce rounding).
• If your pump uses a banjo bolt, remove it using a 14mm socket and discard the old crush washers.
• Disconnect the low-pressure return hose at the pump using hose clamp pliers and pliers.

Step 5: Remove the power steering pump

• Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
• Lift the pump out carefully; keep it upright to avoid spilling fluid.
• Inspect the bracket and mounting area for cracks or missing spacers.

Step 6: Transfer parts to the new pump (if required)

• If the pulley is not included, transfer it from the old pump to the new pump using the proper pulley service method and a serpentine belt tool (specialty) as needed.
• Replace any pump inlet O-ring using the power steering pump O-ring / seal kit.
• Never pry hard on the pulley.

Step 7: Install the new pump

• Set the new pump in place and start all mounting bolts by hand.
• Tighten mounting bolts using a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and the correct 12mm socket / 14mm socket.
• Torque to Subaru factory specification for the pump mounting fasteners.

Step 8: Reconnect lines with new seals/washers

• Reconnect the return hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.
• Reconnect the high-pressure fitting using a line wrench set (10mm-17mm).
• If equipped with a banjo bolt, install new crush washers (one on each side of the fitting) and tighten using a torque wrench (3/8" drive).
• Torque to Subaru factory specification for the high-pressure connection.

Step 9: Reinstall and tension the belt

• Install the belt on the pulleys by hand, following the belt routing.
• Set belt tension using the adjuster hardware with a 12mm socket / 14mm socket.
• Tighten the lock bolt/nut using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Torque to Subaru factory specification for the belt lock fastener.

Step 10: Refill fluid and bleed the system (important)

• Fill the reservoir with Subaru-approved power steering fluid using a funnel to the “COLD” mark.
• With the front wheels off the ground, engine OFF, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times.
• Recheck fluid level and top off with the funnel.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Start the engine and let it idle; do not rev.
• Slowly turn the wheel left/right (not holding at full lock) and watch for bubbles/foam.
• If fluid foams, shut off, wait 10 minutes, and repeat until clear.

Step 11: Reinstall intake ducting

• Reinstall ducting and clips using a flathead screwdriver and trim clip tool.
• Double-check nothing is left near the belt/pulleys.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine idling, inspect for leaks at the high-pressure fitting/banjo bolt and return hose.
• Verify the steering is smooth and quiet; whining usually means air still trapped.
• Recheck fluid level after a short drive and top off to the correct mark.
• Clean any spilled fluid to prevent belt slip and squeal.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.