🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil at the correct level. This keeps your engine protected, quiet, and running longer.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the front of your Rogue with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and set the parking brake firmly.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot; let the engine cool at least 20–30 minutes after driving.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and drive belts; clean spills right away.
• ⚠️ Used oil and the old filter must be recycled properly; do not pour oil on the ground or in drains.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 10mm socket
• 🛠️ 10mm ratchet or breaker bar
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ Ratchet handle (3/8" drive)
• 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (band, cap, or strap type)
• 🛠️ Oil drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🛠️ Funnel (medium-size)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Trim clip removal tool (specialty)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (ft-lb, 5–75 ft-lb range)
• 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
• 🛠️ Nitrile gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Small drain plug gasket pick or dental pick

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts (you'll use ~4.9 quarts)
• 🔩 Engine oil filter (spin-on type for QR25DE) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Oil drain plug crush washer/gasket - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Disposable gloves - Qty: 1 box
• 🔩 Absorbent floor pads or cardboard - Qty: 1–2
• 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 (for cleaning spilled oil)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in P.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires so the vehicle cannot roll.
• Let the engine cool 20–30 minutes so the oil is warm, not hot. Warm oil drains faster.
• Lay cardboard or pads under the engine area to catch any drips.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl out mid-job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of your Rogue

• Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper on the subframe).
• Use the floor jack to lift the front high enough to place jack stands under the left and right pinch welds (under the front doors).
• Lower the Rogue gently onto the jack stands and give the vehicle a small push to ensure it is stable.
• Leave the floor jack lightly touching the jacking point as a backup, but with most weight on the jack stands.

Step 2: Remove the engine under-cover (splash shield)

• Slide under the front and locate the plastic shield beneath the engine.
• Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to remove the small bolts holding the shield.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips.
• Lower the shield and set it aside where you won’t step on it.

Step 3: Locate the drain plug and oil filter

• With the shield removed, find the oil pan at the bottom of the engine; it’s a metal pan facing downward.
• The drain plug is a single bolt on the back or bottom of the oil pan; you’ll use a 14mm socket on it.
• Look for the oil filter, a round, screw-on canister, mounted on the engine block (toward the front passenger side of the engine area).

Step 4: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the oil drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the direction you expect the oil stream to flow.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then remove it by hand while holding it firmly.
• Let the oil drain completely into the oil drain pan; this can take 5–10 minutes. Be patient; let it drip.
• Inspect the drain plug and remove the old crush washer using a small gasket pick if needed.
• Install the new crush washer onto the drain plug.

Step 5: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Wipe the area around the drain hole with shop rags so it’s clean.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first so you don’t cross-thread it.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• If you don’t have a torque wrench, snug it firmly but do not overtighten. Crush washer does the sealing.

Step 6: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter; some oil will spill when it comes off.
• Use your oil filter wrench to loosen the filter by turning it counterclockwise.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand and carefully lower it into the oil drain pan.
• Check the engine’s filter mounting surface to make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there.

Step 7: Prepare and install the new oil filter

• Take the new filter out of the box.
• Dip a clean finger into fresh engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket contacts the metal surface.
• Once the gasket touches, turn the filter an additional 2/3 to 3/4 turn by hand, or use an oil filter wrench and tighten to about 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) if you have a torque-cap type.
• Hand-tight plus a bit is usually enough.

Step 8: Clean up underneath and reinstall the under-cover

• Use shop rags and a light spray of brake cleaner to clean any oil drips from the oil pan, drain plug, and filter area.
• Reposition the engine under-cover back under the engine.
• Install the bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet; snug them evenly.
• Press the plastic clips back into place by hand or with a gentle push from a flathead screwdriver.

Step 9: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the Rogue fully to the ground and remove the floor jack and wheel chocks.

Step 10: Add fresh engine oil

• Open the hood and secure it with the prop rod.
• Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually marked “Engine Oil” or “0W-20”).
• Place a funnel in the filler opening.
• Pour in 4.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic oil to start.
• Reinstall the oil cap by hand.

Step 11: Start engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look under the Rogue with a flashlight at the drain plug and filter; check for drips.
• If you see any leak, shut off the engine and gently snug that part (using the 14mm socket for the plug or oil filter wrench for the filter).
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan.

Step 12: Set the final oil level

• Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a shop rag, then reinsert fully and pull out again.
• Check the oil level; it should be between the “L” (low) and “H” (high) marks, preferably near the top mark.
• If it’s low, add oil in small amounts (about 0.2–0.3 quart at a time) using the funnel. Your Rogue typically needs about 4.9 quarts (4.6 L) total with filter.
• Recheck the dipstick until the level is correct, then reinstall the dipstick and oil cap firmly.

Step 13: Reset the maintenance reminder (if displayed)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine can be off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to navigate the display: Menu > Settings > Maintenance.
• Select Oil and Filter, then choose Reset and confirm.
• Menu names may vary slightly; follow closest match.

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and let the engine sit 5 minutes.
• Recheck the oil level with the dipstick and top off if needed.
• Look under the Rogue again to confirm there are no fresh leaks at the drain plug or filter.
• Make a note of the date and mileage so you know when the next oil change is due.
• Dispose of the used oil and filter at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90–$150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55–$80 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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