🔧 Wrangler - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you’ll feel clunks, excess vibration, or see the engine lift/shift when you blip the throttle.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount hardware (never rely on a mount that’s being removed).
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on the frame; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine and frame while lifting or lowering.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; you’ll be working near hot parts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended: remove the negative cable to prevent accidental cranking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 in, 12-18 in long)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (10mm-21mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-21mm)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Swivel/universal joint adapter (specialty)
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (nuts/bolts) (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands; keep the floor jack free to support the engine.
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove splash shields (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool to pop out plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the shield(s).

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place a wood block (2x6) on the pad of the floor jack.
• Position the jack under the oil pan area and lift only until the wood block firmly contacts the pan.
• Lift just enough to take weight off mounts.

Step 3: Loosen (do not remove) both mount-to-frame fasteners

• From below, use a 18mm or 21mm socket and breaker bar to crack loose the mount-to-frame nut/bolt on each side.
• Leave a few threads engaged so the engine can’t shift suddenly.
• “Breaker bar” = extra-long handle for tight bolts.

Step 4: Remove the right engine mount

• Use an 18mm or 21mm socket with an extension to remove the right mount-to-frame fastener.
• Use a 15mm or 16mm socket (varies by hardware) to remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• If access is tight, use a swivel/universal joint adapter (specialty) to reach angled bolts. A “swivel” lets the socket bend.
• Slowly raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the mount can slide out.

Step 5: Install the new right engine mount

• Position the new mount in place by hand.
• Start all fasteners by hand first (no power tools) to avoid cross-threading.
• Lower/raise the engine slightly using the floor jack until the bolt holes line up cleanly.
• Tighten fasteners snug with a ratchet, then torque:
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-frame fastener to 122 Nm (90 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the left engine mount

• Repeat the same process on the left side using your socket set (15mm-21mm), extensions, and swivel as needed.
• Lift the engine slightly with the floor jack if the mount is “pinched” and won’t come out.

Step 7: Install the new left engine mount

• Set the new mount in place and start all bolts by hand.
• Align holes by adjusting engine height with the floor jack.
• Torque fasteners:
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-frame fastener to 122 Nm (90 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reinstall shields and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall splash shields using the 10mm socket and trim clip tool.
• Remove the floor jack from under the engine.
• Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower to the ground.
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; verify the engine sits level and doesn’t rock excessively.
• With the parking brake set, lightly blip the throttle and listen for clunks.
• Test drive at low speed first; recheck for any new vibration or knocking.
• After the test drive, recheck mount fasteners for proper tightness (use your torque wrench if anything felt off).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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