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2013 Hyundai Tucson
2013 Hyundai Tucson
Limited - Inline 4 2.4L
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HYUNDAI TUCSON FUEL PUMP REMOVE LOCATION?

HYUNDAI TUCSON FUEL PUMP REMOVE LOCATION?

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Safety
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Glasses
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson (In-Tank)

Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-check steps

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson (In-Tank)

Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-check steps

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Tucson - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Tucson, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as a single “fuel pump module” (pump + level sender). The usual DIY method is to access it from inside the cabin under the rear seat, swap the module, and install a new seal so it won’t leak fuel vapor or liquid.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no drop lights; use an LED work light.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to avoid fuel spray.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before opening the fuel system.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and clean spills immediately.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • LED work light
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • 6" socket extension (3/8" drive)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Fuel line disconnect tool set
  • Pick tool set
  • Small brass punch
  • Small hammer
  • Shop rags
  • Catch pan
  • Paint marker
  • Handheld vacuum
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module seal / tank O-ring gasket - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Run the fuel level down if possible; a near-empty tank reduces spill risk.
  • Have a trash bag ready for fuel-soaked rags.
  • Cleanliness matters—dirt can ruin the new pump.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the fuse/relay box cover.
  • Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers (pull straight up).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank 2–3 seconds more to bleed remaining pressure.
  • Turn ignition OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover (under rear seat)

  • Move the front seats forward for room.
  • Lift/remove the rear seat cushion (fasteners vary): use a flat trim tool to release clips and a 10mm socket if bolts are present.
  • Peel back any sound insulation to expose the round metal service cover.

Step 4: Remove the service cover and clean the area

  • Remove the service cover screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
  • Before opening the tank, vacuum loose dirt using a handheld vacuum.
  • Wipe the top of the module and surrounding area with shop rags.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the module electrical connector (press the lock tab; use a pick tool set only if needed).
  • Place shop rags and a catch pan under the fuel line connections.
  • Disconnect the fuel feed/return/EVAP lines:
    • Release quick-connects by hand; if stuck, use a fuel line disconnect tool set.
    • Use a pick tool set carefully to lift locking tabs without breaking them.

Step 6: Mark the module position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the lock ring and tank/module so you can re-align it during installation.

Step 7: Remove the lock ring

  • Use a small brass punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
  • Brass helps reduce spark risk.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Carefully lift the module straight up; angle it as needed to clear the fuel level float arm.
  • Let fuel drain into the tank; then move the module to the catch pan.
  • Remove and discard the old tank seal/O-ring using a pick tool set.

Step 9: Install the new seal and new module

  • Install the new seal/O-ring into the tank groove by hand (no twisting).
  • Lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm carefully.
  • Align the module with your paint marker marks.

Step 10: Reinstall the lock ring

  • Thread the lock ring on by hand first to avoid cross-binding.
  • Use the small brass punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring clockwise until fully seated and aligned to your marks.
  • If you have the Hyundai lock ring tightening spec available for your Tucson, use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with the correct adapter and torque to factory specification.

Step 11: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical

  • Reconnect each fuel line until you hear/feel a solid “click.”
  • Install any new fuel line retaining clips (if equipped) by hand.
  • Plug in the electrical connector (confirm the lock tab is fully engaged).

Step 12: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat

  • Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion using a flat trim tool for clips and a 10mm socket if bolts are present.

Step 13: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
  • Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle while you check for fuel smell and any seepage at the lines and lock ring area.
  • Shut the engine off and recheck for leaks after 5 minutes.
  • If you have a check engine light after the repair, recheck EVAP line connections and the electrical connector seating.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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