How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson (In-Tank)
Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-check steps
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson (In-Tank)
Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-check steps


🔧 Tucson - Fuel Pump Module Replacement
On your Tucson, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as a single “fuel pump module” (pump + level sender). The usual DIY method is to access it from inside the cabin under the rear seat, swap the module, and install a new seal so it won’t leak fuel vapor or liquid.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no drop lights; use an LED work light.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to avoid fuel spray.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before opening the fuel system.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and clean spills immediately.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- LED work light
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- 6" socket extension (3/8" drive)
- Flat trim tool
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Needle-nose pliers
- Fuel line disconnect tool set
- Pick tool set
- Small brass punch
- Small hammer
- Shop rags
- Catch pan
- Paint marker
- Handheld vacuum
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal / tank O-ring gasket - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Run the fuel level down if possible; a near-empty tank reduces spill risk.
- Have a trash bag ready for fuel-soaked rags.
- Cleanliness matters—dirt can ruin the new pump.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood and remove the fuse/relay box cover.
- Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers (pull straight up).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank 2–3 seconds more to bleed remaining pressure.
- Turn ignition OFF.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover (under rear seat)
- Move the front seats forward for room.
- Lift/remove the rear seat cushion (fasteners vary): use a flat trim tool to release clips and a 10mm socket if bolts are present.
- Peel back any sound insulation to expose the round metal service cover.
Step 4: Remove the service cover and clean the area
- Remove the service cover screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
- Before opening the tank, vacuum loose dirt using a handheld vacuum.
- Wipe the top of the module and surrounding area with shop rags.
Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines
- Unplug the module electrical connector (press the lock tab; use a pick tool set only if needed).
- Place shop rags and a catch pan under the fuel line connections.
- Disconnect the fuel feed/return/EVAP lines:
- Release quick-connects by hand; if stuck, use a fuel line disconnect tool set.
- Use a pick tool set carefully to lift locking tabs without breaking them.
Step 6: Mark the module position
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the lock ring and tank/module so you can re-align it during installation.
Step 7: Remove the lock ring
- Use a small brass punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Brass helps reduce spark risk.
Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up; angle it as needed to clear the fuel level float arm.
- Let fuel drain into the tank; then move the module to the catch pan.
- Remove and discard the old tank seal/O-ring using a pick tool set.
Step 9: Install the new seal and new module
- Install the new seal/O-ring into the tank groove by hand (no twisting).
- Lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm carefully.
- Align the module with your paint marker marks.
Step 10: Reinstall the lock ring
- Thread the lock ring on by hand first to avoid cross-binding.
- Use the small brass punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring clockwise until fully seated and aligned to your marks.
- If you have the Hyundai lock ring tightening spec available for your Tucson, use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with the correct adapter and torque to factory specification.
Step 11: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical
- Reconnect each fuel line until you hear/feel a solid “click.”
- Install any new fuel line retaining clips (if equipped) by hand.
- Plug in the electrical connector (confirm the lock tab is fully engaged).
Step 12: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion using a flat trim tool for clips and a 10mm socket if bolts are present.
Step 13: Restore power and prime the system
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
- Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle while you check for fuel smell and any seepage at the lines and lock ring area.
- Shut the engine off and recheck for leaks after 5 minutes.
- If you have a check engine light after the repair, recheck EVAP line connections and the electrical connector seating.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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