🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing it restores safe steering and fixes looseness, clunking, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands before working under it.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels and work on level ground.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection when removing cotter pins and using pullers.
• 🧭 You must get a front wheel alignment after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm socket
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod end is easy to access.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and jam nut position.
• 📏 Measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, and write it down with a tape measure.
• 🧴 Spray the jam nut and the tie rod end threads with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front corner

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Lift with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 3: Mark and “count turns”

• Mark the jam nut and the tie rod threads using a paint marker.
• Hold the jam nut with a 22mm open-end wrench and loosen it about 1 turn (do not move it far).
• As you remove the tie rod end later, count the exact number of turns it takes to come off. This helps keep the toe close enough to drive to alignment.
• Write the turns down as you go.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
• Pull it out with needle-nose pliers (or cut and remove it using side cutters if it’s rusted).

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Remove the nut from the tie rod end stud using a 17mm socket.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A tie rod end puller is a clamp tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the boot.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) while the puller is tight.
• Don’t hit the stud threads.

Step 7: Remove the old outer tie rod end

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the turns as you go.
• Keep the jam nut in roughly the same spot.

Step 8: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Snug the jam nut against the tie rod end using a 22mm open-end wrench.

Step 9: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle.
• Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly until it does (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends over.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body steady and tighten the jam nut using a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• 🔍 Check the castle nut has a cotter pin installed and fully bent over.
• 🛣️ Test drive at low speed first, then normal roads.
• 🧭 Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.