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2008 Honda Accord
2008 Honda Accord
EX - V6 3.5L
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How to replace power steering pump on a 2008 Honda Accord

How to replace power steering pump on a 2008 Honda Accord

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How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2008 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and power steering bleed procedure

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2008 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and power steering bleed procedure

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Power Steering Pump Replacement

Your Accord’s power steering pump pressurizes Honda power steering fluid so the steering stays light and smooth. If the pump is leaking, whining, or losing assist, replacing it (and bleeding the system) restores proper pressure and prevents fluid from damaging belts and nearby components.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the pump sits near hot components.
  • ⚠️ Power steering fluid is slippery—clean spills immediately to prevent falls.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep fluid off the serpentine belt and alternator.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be working near the alternator wiring.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan (2-gallon minimum)
  • Funnel
  • Turkey baster style fluid extractor
  • Shop towels
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension (3/8" drive)
  • 12mm combination wrench
  • 14mm combination wrench
  • Line wrench set (10mm-14mm)
  • Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Pulley puller/installer set (specialty)
  • Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2")

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Power steering pump - Qty: 1
  • Power steering pump pulley - Qty: 1 (only if not included)
  • Power steering fluid (Honda/Acura PSF compatible) - Qty: 3 quarts
  • High-pressure line sealing washers - Qty: 2
  • Power steering return hose - Qty: 1 (recommended if hose is soft/swollen)
  • Return hose clamp - Qty: 1 (recommended if original is weak)
  • Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 (recommended if belt is cracked/contaminated)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Turn the steering wheel so the front wheels point straight.
  • Use a turkey baster style fluid extractor to suck old fluid from the reservoir into a drain pan.
  • If you plan to raise the front, lift at the proper jack point using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket if you’ll be working close to the alternator.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve belt tension

  • Locate the serpentine belt automatic tensioner.
  • Use a 14mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
  • Take a quick photo of belt routing.

Step 2: Remove the return hose and drain fluid

  • Place a drain pan under the pump area.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to slide the return-hose clamp back on the hose.
  • Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the pump nipple.
  • Use shop towels to catch remaining fluid drips.

Step 3: Disconnect the high-pressure line

  • Clean around the high-pressure fitting with shop towels so dirt doesn’t enter the system.
  • Use a line wrench (a box-end wrench with a slot that grips the fitting better) to loosen the high-pressure fitting/banjo connection at the pump.
  • Remove the bolt/fitting using a 12mm or 14mm tool as equipped on your pump connection.
  • Remove and discard the old sealing washers; you’ll install new ones.

Step 4: Unbolt and remove the power steering pump

  • Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet with a 6" extension.
  • Lift the pump out carefully, keeping it upright to avoid spilling fluid.

Step 5: Transfer the pulley (only if your new pump does not include a pulley)

  • Secure the old pump so it doesn’t tip (use the floor or a sturdy surface).
  • Use the pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to press the pulley off the old pump shaft.
  • Use the same pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to press the pulley onto the new pump shaft until it’s fully seated and aligned.
  • Do not hammer the pulley on.

Step 6: Install the new pump

  • Set the new pump in place and start the mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reconnect the high-pressure line with new sealing washers

  • Install new sealing washers (one on each side of the fitting if it uses a banjo bolt).
  • Thread the fitting/bolt in by hand first.
  • Tighten using a torque wrench and the correct 12mm socket or 14mm socket: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the return hose

  • Slide the return hose fully onto the pump nipple.
  • Position the clamp in the same spot as original using hose clamp pliers.
  • Wipe any spilled fluid using shop towels.

Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt

  • Route the belt correctly over all pulleys.
  • Rotate the tensioner using a 14mm socket and breaker bar and slip the belt over the power steering pump pulley.
  • Double-check the belt is centered in every pulley groove.

Step 10: Fill and bleed the power steering system

  • Fill the reservoir using a funnel with Honda/Acura PSF compatible fluid to the MAX line.
  • With the engine OFF, raise the front end (optional but helpful) using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
  • Turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock about 10 times to push air out.
  • Top off fluid as the level drops.
  • Start the engine and let it idle; do not hold the wheel against the stops.
  • Turn the wheel slowly lock-to-lock a few more times, then recheck fluid and top off to the MAX line.
  • Foamy fluid means air is still bleeding out.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and listen: mild noise at first is normal; it should quiet as air purges.
  • Check carefully for leaks at the high-pressure connection and return hose with a flashlight.
  • Test drive at low speed and confirm steering is smooth and consistent.
  • Recheck the reservoir level after the test drive and again the next morning; top off if needed.
  • If the fluid stays foamy or the pump keeps whining, repeat the bleeding process.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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