How to Replace Upstream & Downstream Oxygen Sensors on a 2008 Honda Accord
Step-by-step B1S1/B1S2 sensor swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 33 ft-lbs torque spec
How to Replace Upstream & Downstream Oxygen Sensors on a 2008 Honda Accord
Step-by-step B1S1/B1S2 sensor swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 33 ft-lbs torque spec


š§ Accord - Oxygen Sensor Replacement
Your Accord uses two exhaust sensors: an upstream Air/Fuel (A/F) sensor (controls fuel mixture) and a downstream O2 sensor (monitors catalytic converter). Replacement is mostly about safe access, unplugging the connector, and swapping the sensor without damaging the wiring.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-2.0 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Exhaust parts get extremely hotālet the engine cool 45-90 minutes before starting.
- ā ļø Support the car with jack stands on solid, level groundānever rely on a floor jack alone.
- ā ļø Do not pull on the sensor wiresāonly handle the connector body.
- ā ļø If you use penetrating oil, keep it off the sensor tip and electrical connector.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- 22mm oxygen sensor socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- 3/8" drive extension set
- Penetrating oil
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- OBD2 scan tool (basic) (specialty)
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upstream A/F sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Qty: 1
- Downstream O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2) - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound (sensor-safe) - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift into 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Decide which sensor youāre replacing:
- Upstream (B1S1): mounted at the exhaust manifold area, closer to the engine.
- Downstream (B1S2): mounted after the catalytic converter, under the car.
- Tip: Spray penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify the sensor and get access
- If replacing the downstream sensor, lift the front of the car using a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- If a plastic splash shield blocks access, remove clips using a trim clip removal tool and/or flathead screwdriver, then remove any bolts with a 10mm socket.
Step 2: Unplug the sensor connector
- Locate the sensorās electrical connector and release the lock tab by hand or with a flathead screwdriver.
- Separate the connector by pulling on the connector bodies (not the wires).
Step 3: Remove the old sensor
- Spray the sensor threads with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
- Slide the 22mm oxygen sensor socket over the sensor (it has a side cutout to clear the wireāthis is why itās different than a normal socket).
- Use a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 3/8" drive extension as needed to break it loose, then spin it out by hand.
Step 4: Install the new sensor
- Compare the new sensor to the old one (connector shape and wire length should match).
- If the new sensor threads are not pre-coated, apply a tiny amount of anti-seize compound (sensor-safe) to the threads only. Keep it off the tip.
- Thread the new sensor in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using the 22mm oxygen sensor socket and a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 44 NĀ·m (33 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Reconnect wiring and reassemble
- Route the harness the same way as the original and clip it back into any holders.
- Reconnect the connector until it clicks.
- Reinstall any splash shield hardware using a 10mm socket and reinstall clips with the trim clip removal tool.
- If the car was raised, lower it safely using the floor jack.
ā After Repair
- Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks (a ticking sound near the sensor area can indicate a leak).
- Use an OBD2 scan tool (basic) to clear any stored codes and turn off the check engine light.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes and verify the light stays off.
- Tip: Recheck for leaks after the test drive.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $120-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















