How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2007 Honda CR-V (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete suspension refresh
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2007 Honda CR-V (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete suspension refresh


🔧 CR-V - Strut Replacement
On your CR-V, the front suspension uses struts (strut + spring assembly). The rear uses shocks (spring is separate), so I’ll cover both so you can do the full ride refresh.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ If you are reusing springs, a coil spring compressor is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
- ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so the CV axle doesn’t over-extend.
- ⚠️ Use eye protection; rust flakes and debris fall when removing suspension bolts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Ratchet (1/2" drive)
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
- Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Hex key set: 5mm, 6mm
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim panel tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set (2 assemblies)
- OR Front struts (bare) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set
- Front dust boot & bump stop kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Sway bar end links (optional if loose/torn) - Front - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the rear wheels.
- Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear lower shock bolts 10–20 minutes before removal.
- If using quick-struts (pre-assembled), you can skip spring-compressor work. This is the safer beginner-friendly option.
- Plan for a front wheel alignment after replacing front struts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn on the ground.
- Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the vehicle on jack stands.
- Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar link (front)
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS/brake line brackets from the strut body (don’t pull on the wires/hoses).
- Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench while holding the stud with a 6mm hex key.
- If the nut spins, add penetrating oil and try again.
Step 3: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts (front)
- Use a paint marker to mark the bolt positions where the strut meets the knuckle.
- Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
- If stuck, tap bolts out with a hammer while holding the knuckle steady.
Step 4: Remove the strut top nuts (front)
- Open the hood.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the strut mount nuts at the top (leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut).
- Hold the strut with your hand, remove the last nut with a 14mm socket, and lift the strut out.
Step 5: If reusing springs (skip if installing quick-struts)
- Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
- Remove the center top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
- Transfer the spring and components to the new strut (mount/bearing, boot, bump stop).
- Reinstall the center top nut and release the compressors slowly and evenly.
- Keep hands out of “spring line of fire.”
Step 6: Install the front strut
- Place the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Line up the knuckle and insert the two lower bolts; start nuts by hand using a 19mm socket.
- Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").
- Torque strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (3/8").
Step 7: Reconnect sway bar link and brackets (front)
- Install the sway bar link nut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key.
- Torque sway bar end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (use a crowfoot if needed) or tighten firmly to spec if your setup allows.
- Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket.
Step 8: Reinstall front wheels
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").
Step 9: Replace the rear shocks (rear “struts”)
- Chock the front wheels, then lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
- Remove rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock comes out.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Access the upper shock mount fasteners from inside the cargo area side trim:
- Use a trim panel tool to carefully pop the rear side trim access as needed.
- Remove upper mount nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket.
- Remove the shock and install the new one in reverse order.
- Torque rear lower shock bolt to 118 Nm (87 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").
- Torque rear upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (3/8").
- Reinstall rear wheels and torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Recheck all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
- Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (new struts can change camber/toe).
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, don’t delay the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $800-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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