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2007 Honda CR-V
2007 Honda CR-V
EX-L - Inline 4 2.4L
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How To Replace Front Struts 2007-11 Honda CR-V

How To Replace Front Struts 2007-11 Honda CR-V

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2007 Honda CR-V (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete suspension refresh

How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2007 Honda CR-V (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete suspension refresh

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Orion Logo White

🔧 CR-V - Strut Replacement

On your CR-V, the front suspension uses struts (strut + spring assembly). The rear uses shocks (spring is separate), so I’ll cover both so you can do the full ride refresh.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ If you are reusing springs, a coil spring compressor is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so the CV axle doesn’t over-extend.
  • ⚠️ Use eye protection; rust flakes and debris fall when removing suspension bolts.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive)
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Ratchet (1/2" drive)
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
  • Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Hex key set: 5mm, 6mm
  • Pry bar
  • Hammer
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim panel tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set (2 assemblies)
  • OR Front struts (bare) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set
  • Front dust boot & bump stop kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper shock mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Sway bar end links (optional if loose/torn) - Front - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear lower shock bolts 10–20 minutes before removal.
  • If using quick-struts (pre-assembled), you can skip spring-compressor work. This is the safer beginner-friendly option.
  • Plan for a front wheel alignment after replacing front struts.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn on the ground.
  • Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the vehicle on jack stands.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar link (front)

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS/brake line brackets from the strut body (don’t pull on the wires/hoses).
  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench while holding the stud with a 6mm hex key.
  • If the nut spins, add penetrating oil and try again.

Step 3: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts (front)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the bolt positions where the strut meets the knuckle.
  • Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • If stuck, tap bolts out with a hammer while holding the knuckle steady.

Step 4: Remove the strut top nuts (front)

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the strut mount nuts at the top (leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut).
  • Hold the strut with your hand, remove the last nut with a 14mm socket, and lift the strut out.

Step 5: If reusing springs (skip if installing quick-struts)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
  • Remove the center top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
  • Transfer the spring and components to the new strut (mount/bearing, boot, bump stop).
  • Reinstall the center top nut and release the compressors slowly and evenly.
  • Keep hands out of “spring line of fire.”

Step 6: Install the front strut

  • Place the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the knuckle and insert the two lower bolts; start nuts by hand using a 19mm socket.
  • Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").
  • Torque strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (3/8").

Step 7: Reconnect sway bar link and brackets (front)

  • Install the sway bar link nut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key.
  • Torque sway bar end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (use a crowfoot if needed) or tighten firmly to spec if your setup allows.
  • Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket.

Step 8: Reinstall front wheels

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").

Step 9: Replace the rear shocks (rear “struts”)

  • Chock the front wheels, then lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
  • Remove rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
  • Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock comes out.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Access the upper shock mount fasteners from inside the cargo area side trim:
    • Use a trim panel tool to carefully pop the rear side trim access as needed.
    • Remove upper mount nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the shock and install the new one in reverse order.
  • Torque rear lower shock bolt to 118 Nm (87 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2").
  • Torque rear upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (3/8").
  • Reinstall rear wheels and torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Recheck all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
  • Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (new struts can change camber/toe).
  • If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, don’t delay the alignment.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.


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