How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Ford F-150 (Left & Right)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Ford F-150 (Left & Right)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes


🔧 F-150 - Engine Mount Replacement
Replacing the engine mounts supports the engine correctly and reduces vibration, clunks, and drivetrain movement. On your F-150, the job is mainly about safely supporting the engine, unbolting the mounts, and installing the new ones without stressing hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; an unsupported engine can shift suddenly.
- ⚠️ Work on a flat surface; use jack stands under the frame, not just a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
- ⚠️ Do not lift on the oil pan without a wide wood block; the block spreads the load to prevent damage.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before starting.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental shorts near the starter wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support
- Wood block (2x6, 12-18 in long)
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- Deep socket set (13mm-21mm)
- Wrench set (13mm-21mm)
- 1/2 in drive breaker bar
- 1/2 in drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
- 3/8 in drive ratchet
- 3/8 in drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
- Extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
- Universal joint swivel adapter
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left (driver-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove the ignition key.
- Use an 8mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal; move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands; leave the suspension hanging for access.
- Spray engine mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
- Take photos before removing anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic push-pins.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the shield.
- Set the shield and clips aside in a tray.
Step 2: Support the engine safely
- Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the fender rails and lightly tension it to take some engine weight.
- Position a floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support under the engine with a wood block (2x6, 12-18 in long) between the jack pad and the oil pan.
- Raise the jack just until the wood block contacts firmly; do not lift the truck.
- Lift only enough to unload the mounts.
Step 3: Locate and mark the engine mount positions
- Use a shop light to find the left and right mounts between the engine and the frame brackets.
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount-to-bracket alignment so the new mount sits similarly.
Step 4: Loosen (do not remove yet) the engine-side mount fasteners
- Use a deep socket set (15mm-21mm), extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in), and a universal joint swivel adapter as needed.
- Use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar to crack the fasteners loose.
- Leave the fasteners threaded in a few turns for now.
Step 5: Remove the mount-to-frame nuts/bolts
- From underneath, use a deep socket set (15mm-21mm) and 3/8 in drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-frame fasteners.
- If access is tight, use wrench set (13mm-21mm) to hold the opposite side while you loosen with a socket.
- Keep left and right hardware separated.
Step 6: Remove the engine-side fasteners and lift the engine slightly
- Use the socket set (13mm-21mm) to remove the engine-side fasteners you loosened earlier.
- Slowly pump the floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support to lift the engine just enough to create a gap above the mount studs.
- Watch hoses, wiring, intake tube, and fan shroud area while lifting; stop if anything pulls tight.
Step 7: Remove the old mount(s)
- Use your hands and a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the mount out of the frame pocket if it’s stuck.
- Note the orientation (which side faces forward).
- If you’re doing both mounts, remove and replace one side at a time to keep alignment easier.
Step 8: Install the new mount
- Place the new mount into the frame bracket by hand.
- Lower or raise the engine slightly using the floor jack (2-ton minimum) for engine support until the studs/holes line up.
- Start all fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- If it won’t start by hand, realign—don’t force.
Step 9: Torque the engine mount fasteners
- Snug all fasteners evenly using a 3/8 in drive ratchet and socket set (13mm-21mm).
- Torque fasteners using a 1/2 in drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs).
- Torque to OEM spec for your fastener set (varies by mount design and hardware).
- As a best practice, if you installed new hardware, torque in stages (example: 50%, then 100%).
Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall the shield using an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool to seat push-pins.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using an 8mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks or rubbing.
- With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and back; watch for excessive engine movement.
- Road test at low speed; recheck for vibrations on acceleration and deceleration.
- Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the first short drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















