🔧 Accord - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts (and the transmission mount) hold the drivetrain in place and absorb vibration. When they wear out, you’ll feel shaking, clunks on shifts, or excessive engine movement. You’ll support the engine safely, then replace mounts one at a time so nothing shifts out of place.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Replacing all mounts (right, left/trans, front, rear).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; never rely on a single mount to “hold it.”
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car held by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan—use a thick wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when aligning mounts; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near the rear mount area.
• ⚠️ Recommended: disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorting near the battery/airbox area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 12-18 in long)
• Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint swivel adapter
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12-18 in)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• New engine mount self-locking nuts/bolts (as applicable) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items around the battery/air intake area.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Plan to replace mounts one at a time to keep alignment manageable.
• If you use an engine support bar (specialty): it spans the strut towers and holds the engine from above (it’s safer than jacking from below).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds or front support points and lower onto them.
• Give the car a firm shake test before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a flat trim clip tool for plastic clips and a 10mm socket for bolts.
• Set hardware aside in a small tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Support the engine safely

• Option A (from below): place a wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 12-18 in long) on the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), then gently contact the engine at a strong flat area of the lower engine (not a thin edge). Lift just enough to “take the weight.”
• Option B (preferred): install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it until it supports the engine.
• Tip: If the car rises, you lifted too much.

Step 4: Remove the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Remove the air intake duct/airbox as needed using a flathead screwdriver (clamps) and 10mm socket (fasteners).
• Remove the mount through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
• Remove mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket and extensions (3", 6").
• Remove bracket-to-engine fasteners (if your replacement requires bracket removal) using a 14mm socket and universal joint swivel adapter.
• Lift/lowers the engine slightly with the floor jack to slide the mount out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount hand-tight first, then torque:
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-body fasteners: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)
  • Bracket-to-engine fasteners (if removed): Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Remove the battery hold-down and battery using a 10mm socket (hold-down) and safe lifting technique.
• Remove the battery tray as needed using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Remove the mount through-bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket and extensions (6", 12").
• Use a pry bar (12-18 in) gently to align holes if needed (do not pry on thin aluminum edges).
• Torque fasteners:
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-body fasteners: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Replace the front engine mount

• Work from underneath with the splash shield removed.
• Remove the mount bolt(s) using a 14mm socket and extensions (6", 12").
• Remove the mount through-bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Adjust engine height slightly using the floor jack and wood block so the new mount drops into place without hammering.
• Torque fasteners:
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
  • Mount fasteners: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Replace the rear engine mount

• The rear mount is tight. Use a universal joint swivel adapter with extensions (12") to reach bolts.
• Remove the rear mount bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and breaker bar if needed.
• Remove the rear mount through-bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Lower/raise the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve bind and remove the mount.
• Install and torque:
  • Mount through-bolt: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
  • Mount/bracket fasteners: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reinstall removed components

• Reinstall the battery tray, battery, and hold-down using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the airbox/ducting using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a 10mm socket and flat trim clip tool.

Step 9: Set the engine down and final-check torque

• Slowly lower the engine support (floor jack or engine support bar (specialty)) until the engine rests naturally on the mounts.
• Re-check that all mount bolts/nuts are torqued using a torque wrench.
• Tip: Tighten only when mount sits neutral.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Look and listen for abnormal knocking or contact.
• With the hood open, lightly blip the throttle in neutral. The engine should move slightly but not “jump.”
• Test drive at low speed first. Check for clunks on takeoff, shifting, and when letting off the throttle.
• Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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