🔧 Rogue - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Rogue, the front uses strut assemblies (shock + spring together) and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn units will improve ride comfort, control, and tire life.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3–5 hours for all four, 1.5–2 hours per axle

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ You’ll be working near suspension parts under tension; keep hands clear of pinch points.
• ⚠️ For the front struts, the coil spring is under high pressure—only use a proper spring compressor if you are transferring springs.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ If you remove front wheels, turn the engine off and keep the key away so the steering does not move.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench 21mm
• 🛠️ Socket set 10–21mm
• 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8"
• 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2"
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 10–200 Nm range
• 🛠️ Combination wrench set 10–19mm
• 🛠️ Hex/Allen key set (metric)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver medium
• 🛠️ Trim removal tool plastic
• 🛠️ Pry bar 12–18"
• 🛠️ Hammer medium
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
• 🛠️ Wire brush small
• 🛠️ Coil spring compressor (external, screw type) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Paint marker or white correction pen
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front complete strut assembly (left) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front complete strut assembly (right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Rear shock absorber (left) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Rear shock absorber (right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front strut mounting nuts and bolts kit - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 Rear shock mounting nuts and bolts kit - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: small tube
• 🔩 Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

Using complete front strut assemblies avoids spring compressor use.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels when working on the front, and in front of the front wheels when working on the rear.
• Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly with the 21mm lug wrench before lifting the vehicle.
• Raise the vehicle using the floor jack at the Nissan-specified jacking points, then support it on jack stands placed under the pinch weld or subframe.
• Remove the key from the vehicle so no one can start or turn the wheels while you work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Prepare and lift the vehicle

• Use the 21mm lug wrench to loosen each wheel nut 1 turn while the Rogue is still on the ground.
• Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point or one side pinch weld and lift until the wheel is off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the pinch weld or front subframe and slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Repeat for the rear if you plan to do rear shocks in the same session.
• Use the 21mm lug wrench again to remove the wheel nuts fully and remove the wheels.

Step 2: Front strut – access and inspect

• Turn the steering wheel so the side you are working on faces outward; this gives more room.
• Spray all visible front strut bolts (lower knuckle bolts and stabilizer link nut) with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the threads where you can reach.
• Locate the front strut: it connects the wheel hub/knuckle at the bottom and the body under the hood at the top.

Step 3: Disconnect front stabilizer (sway bar) link from strut

• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet on the stabilizer link nut where it attaches to the strut.
• If the ball stud spins, hold the center with the proper hex/Allen key while turning the nut with a 17mm wrench.
• Once the nut is removed, push or tap the link stud out of the strut bracket using a hammer if needed.

Step 4: Loosen front strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Locate the two large bolts connecting the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar on the nut side, and hold the bolt head with a 19mm wrench.
• Crack both nuts loose but leave the bolts in place for now.

Step 5: Remove front strut top mount nuts under hood

• Open the hood and locate the three strut mount nuts on top of the strut tower (left and right sides).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove two of the three nuts, leaving one loosely threaded to hold the strut.
• Do not remove the center nut on the strut shaft; that holds the spring.

Step 6: Remove front strut from vehicle

• Support the lower control arm or knuckle with the floor jack slightly to relieve tension.
• Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts completely using the 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 19mm wrench. You may need a hammer to tap the bolts out.
• Hold the strut body with one hand while you remove the last top mount nut with a 14mm socket.
• Carefully lower and guide the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 7: Transfer spring (only if NOT using complete assembly)

• If you bought complete assemblies, skip to Step 8.
• Attach the coil spring compressor on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose on the strut.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet (or wrench) to remove the center shaft nut while holding the shaft with the correct hex/Allen key.
• Carefully lift off the upper mount and spring, then move the compressed spring onto the new strut in the same orientation.
• Install the upper mount on the new strut and tighten the center shaft nut to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and correct socket.
• Slowly release the coil spring compressor evenly until the spring sits firmly in its seats.

Step 8: Install new front strut

• Guide the new strut into the wheel well and align the top studs with the strut tower holes.
• Thread on one top nut by hand to hold it in place, using a 14mm socket by hand.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle and slide in the two lower bolts by hand.
• Install the lower nuts and snug them using a 19mm socket and ratchet, holding the bolt head with a 19mm wrench.

Step 9: Torque front strut fasteners

• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Under the hood, use a torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the three top mount nuts to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect the stabilizer link stud to the strut bracket, and use a 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut to Torque to 62 Nm (46 ft-lbs) while holding the stud with a hex/Allen key if needed.

Step 10: Repeat for the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the other front side using the same tools and torque values.
• Always replace struts in pairs for even handling.

Step 11: Rear shock – access

• Move to the rear of the Rogue; confirm it is safely on jack stands with wheels removed.
• Locate the rear shock: it runs from the lower control arm up to the body.
• Spray the upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let them soak.

Step 12: Remove rear shock lower bolt

• Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar on the lower shock bolt nut, holding the bolt head with an 18mm wrench.
• Remove the nut and slide out the bolt; use a hammer if it is stuck.

Step 13: Remove rear shock upper mounting bolts

• From the wheel well, locate the upper shock mount bolts where the shock meets the body.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two upper bolts.
• Carefully lower and remove the shock from the vehicle.

Step 14: Install new rear shock

• Position the new shock in place and loosely install the two upper mount bolts by hand, then snug them with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Align the lower eyelet with the control arm and insert the lower bolt by hand.
• Install the lower nut and snug it using an 18mm socket and ratchet, holding the bolt head with an 18mm wrench.

Step 15: Torque rear shock fasteners with suspension loaded

• Raise the control arm slightly with the floor jack to simulate normal ride height (this avoids twisting the bushings).
• Use a torque wrench and 14mm socket to torque the upper rear shock bolts to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench and 18mm socket to torque the lower rear shock bolt to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat for the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 11–15 on the other rear shock.
• Always replace rear shocks in pairs.

Step 17: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Place each wheel back on the hub and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug wrench to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise the Rogue slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
• Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque each lug nut to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and slowly drive around your neighborhood, listening for clunks or unusual noises over bumps.
• Verify the steering wheel is centered and the Rogue tracks straight.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment; new struts and shocks can change alignment angles.
• Recheck all visible fasteners and lug nut torque after the first 50–100 km.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900–$1,400 (parts + labor for all four corners)

DIY Cost: $350–$650 (parts only, using complete front struts)

You Save: $550–$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours for front struts and 1–1.5 hours for rear shocks.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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