🔧 Wrangler - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Wrangler means supporting the engine, unbolting the old mounts, and installing new ones without stressing hoses, wiring, or the exhaust. Worn mounts can cause clunks, vibration, and the fan hitting the shroud when you shift or rev.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine securely before loosening mounts.
• ⚠️ Never put any part of your body under an unsupported engine.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; don’t rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only a little at a time; watch radiator hoses, fan-to-shroud clearance, wiring, and exhaust.
• ⚠️ Keep clear of the fan and belts; remove the key from the ignition.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental cranking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 in.)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Ratchet 3/8 in.
• Ratchet 1/2 in.
• Extensions 3 in., 6 in., 12 in.
• Wobble extension set
• Universal joint adapter 1/2 in.
• Combination wrench set 13mm-21mm
• Breaker bar 1/2 in.
• Torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs
• Pry bar 18 in.
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully (you’ll be working near the exhaust).
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Answer these two quick checks (so I give you the exact bolt locations & torque list)

• Is your Wrangler automatic or manual?
• Are you replacing both mounts or just one side?

Step 2: Raise and support the front safely

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the frame.
• Set it down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
• Keep the floor jack available for supporting the engine.

Step 3: Support the engine (critical)

• Place a wood block (2x6 in.) on the floor jack.
• Position the block under the oil pan and raise the jack until it just contacts and supports the engine.
• Do not lift hard on the oil pan. Lift only enough to take weight off the mounts.

Step 4: Create access to the mount you’re doing

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove any splash shield clips/fasteners that block access from below.
• Use a shop light to locate the mount, the frame bracket fasteners, and the through-bolt.

Step 5: Remove the mount through-bolt

• Use a breaker bar 1/2 in., socket set 8mm-21mm, and wobble extension set as needed to remove the mount through-bolt/nut.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack to relieve pressure.

Step 6: Unbolt the mount from the frame bracket

• Use a ratchet 1/2 in., extensions 3 in., 6 in., 12 in., and socket set 8mm-21mm to remove the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Use a pry bar 18 in. gently if the mount is stuck in its locating tabs.

Step 7: Remove the old mount and install the new mount

• Compare old vs new mount orientation before installing (stud/bolt locations should match).
• Position the new mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise/lower the engine until the through-bolt slides in without forcing it.

Step 8: Tighten fasteners in the correct order

• Snug the mount-to-bracket fasteners first using a ratchet 1/2 in..
• Then snug the through-bolt using a ratchet 1/2 in..
• Final tightening should be done with a torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs using the exact factory torque specs for your configuration.

Step 9: Repeat for the other side (if replacing both)

• Lower/raise the engine as needed with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to keep the engine level.
• Do one mount at a time so the engine stays located.

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✅ After Repair

• Reinstall any shields/liners using a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the engine support: slowly lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm the engine settles normally.
• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and watch for excessive movement, new noises, or the fan contacting the shroud.
• Test drive: light acceleration and a few shifts; recheck for clunks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.