🔧 F-150 - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts (motor mounts) hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. On your F-150, replacing worn mounts usually requires supporting the engine, unbolting the mount(s), then slightly lifting the engine to slide the mount(s) out and in.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mount hardware.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while lifting the engine; it can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not jack on the oil pan directly; use a wood block to spread load.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable: remove negative terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block 2x6 in (about 12-18 in long)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep socket set 13mm-21mm
• Wrench set 13mm-21mm
• 1/2-in drive breaker bar
• 1/2-in drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• 3/8-in drive ratchet
• Long extensions (6 in + 12 in)
• Universal joint adapter
• Pry bar (24 in)
• Penetrating oil
• Trim clip remover
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left/driver side) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right/passenger side) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-frame nuts/bolts (recommended) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands so the suspension can hang.
• Spray engine mount fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 10-15 minutes.
• If removing any skid plate/splash shield, pop clips with a trim clip remover and remove bolts with your socket set.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Before we start: 2 quick questions

• Which mount(s) are you replacing: driver, passenger, or both?
• Does your A/C lines/washer bottle on the passenger side leave tight space (yes/no)? (This changes the easiest access path.)

Step 1: Disconnect battery (recommended)

• Use an 8mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 2: Remove lower shields/skid plate (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover for plastic retainers.
• Use the appropriate socket set 10mm-13mm to remove bolts, then drop the shield.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place the wood block on the floor jack saddle.
• Raise the jack until the wood block just contacts the bottom of the engine (front sump area). Do not lift yet.
• “Just snug” support prevents sudden shifting.

Step 4: Loosen the mount-to-frame fasteners

• From underneath, locate the mount “stud” coming down into the frame bracket.
• Use a deep socket (typically 18mm) with a breaker bar to loosen the nut a few turns (do not remove yet).

Step 5: Loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners

• Access varies by side; use long extensions and a universal joint adapter as needed.
• Use a socket/wrench set (typically 15mm-18mm) to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Stop here for torque specs: Ford uses different bolt sizes by build; once you tell me which side(s), I’ll give you the exact torque values for each fastener on that side.

Step 6: Lift engine slightly and remove the mount

• Use the floor jack to lift the engine slowly, about 1/2 to 1 inch at a time.
• Watch the fan shroud, radiator hoses, and wiring while lifting.
• Remove the mount-to-frame nut fully with the deep socket.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bolts with the socket set, then work the mount out.
• Use a pry bar gently if needed to shift the engine for clearance.

Step 7: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all mount-to-engine bolts by hand using your socket set.
• Lower or raise the engine with the floor jack until the mount stud drops cleanly into the frame bracket hole.
• Start the mount-to-frame nut by hand with a deep socket.

Step 8: Tighten and torque fasteners

• Snug all fasteners first using a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to (pending your answers): I’ll provide the exact Ford torque specs for the mount-to-engine bolts and mount-to-frame nut once you tell me which side(s) you’re doing.

Step 9: Reinstall shields and reconnect battery

• Reinstall skid plate/splash shield bolts using the socket set.
• Reconnect the negative terminal using an 8mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch for abnormal movement.
• Shift through P-R-N-D with your foot on the brake and listen for clunks.
• Test drive and recheck mount fasteners for tightness if you heard any new noise.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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