🔧 CR-V - Front Strut Replacement

On your CR-V, the front suspension uses struts (a shock + spring unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control—especially over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on top of the strut unless the spring is compressed; the spring is stored energy and can cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ Support your CR-V on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you reuse your coil springs, you must use a spring compressor (specialty) correctly and evenly.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a professional alignment; handling and tire wear depend on it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 6mm hex key
• Breaker bar (24")
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer (sway bar) end links - Optional but recommended if boots are torn - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the two strut-to-knuckle fasteners and the sway bar end link nut.
• If you are not using complete strut assemblies: a spring compressor is a specialty tool that squeezes the coil spring shorter so it can be removed safely.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions for a “close” starting point (you still need an alignment afterward).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut using a 12mm socket. Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the ABS wire bracket bolt(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket. Torque to 9 Nm (7 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Do not let the caliper hose pull tight.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut

• Hold the end link stud with a 6mm hex key while loosening the nut with a 17mm wrench.
• Remove the nut and free the end link from the strut tab. Torque to 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop and pull on the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle nuts using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar (24").
• Work the bolts out; use a pry bar (18") to gently separate the strut from the knuckle if needed.
• On reassembly: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle fasteners.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• On reassembly: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts.

Step 6: If using complete strut assemblies, swap them in (recommended)

• Place the new complete strut assembly into position and hand-thread the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Align the strut bracket with the knuckle and install both strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Tighten in this order using a torque wrench:
• Upper mount nuts: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
• Strut-to-knuckle fasteners: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)

Step 7: If reusing springs (only if you’re experienced)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the strut top nut using a 17mm socket while holding the strut shaft if needed with a 6mm hex key.
• Transfer the spring, upper mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Release the compressor slowly and evenly, ensuring the spring ends seat correctly.

Step 8: Reconnect brackets and end link

• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key. Torque to 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket using a 12mm socket. Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the ABS wire bracket using a 10mm socket. Torque to 9 Nm (7 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the CR-V and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm no hoses/wires are stretched or rubbing.
• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• If the steering wheel is off-center after, do not ignore it—alignment is needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$800 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.