🔧 Accord - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Accord, the “shocks” are the rear shock absorbers, and the front uses strut assemblies (a shock built into a strut with a spring). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: Torque specs listed are typical for this Accord; verify with a service manual if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store dangerous energy—only compress a spring with a proper spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
• ⚠️ If replacing front struts, get a wheel alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-22mm, 3/8" and 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Deep socket set (10mm-19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Allen key set (metric)
• Pry bar (18"-24")
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Punch set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper bushings/hardware kit - If not included - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels when lifting the front (and chock the front wheels when lifting the rear).
• Loosen lug nuts slightly before lifting the car using a breaker bar and the correct socket.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nuts, and rear lower shock bolts. Let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Plan an alignment appointment after the front struts are replaced.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a breaker bar (1/2") with the correct socket set (8mm-22mm) to loosen lug nuts.
• Lift the car with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a ratchet (1/2") and socket.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Front strut removal (one side at a time)

• Turn the steering to give yourself room at the strut.
• Detach any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a wrench set (14mm-19mm) and an Allen key set (metric) to hold the stud from spinning.
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack under the lower control arm so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (17mm-22mm). Tap bolts out with a hammer (16 oz) and punch set if needed.
• Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 3: Remove the front strut from the body

• Open the hood.
• Hold the strut from below with one hand, then remove the top mount nuts using a deep socket set (10mm-19mm) and ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Carefully lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 4: Front strut install (quick-strut vs reusing spring)

• If you bought complete strut assemblies: skip spring transfer and install the complete unit.
• If you must reuse the spring: use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the spring evenly until it’s loose on the seat. Compress both sides equally.
• Remove the strut shaft top nut using a socket set (17mm-22mm) and Allen key set (metric) if the shaft needs holding.
• Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.

Step 5: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Position the strut up into the strut tower and start the top nuts by hand using a deep socket set (10mm-19mm).
• Align the strut with the steering knuckle and install the two large bolts using a socket set (17mm-22mm) and breaker bar (1/2").
• Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) (strut-to-knuckle bolts).
• Reattach the sway bar end link using a wrench set (14mm-19mm) and Allen key set (metric). Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket. Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the top mount nuts under the hood using a torque wrench (3/8"). Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 2-5 on the other front side.

Step 6: Rear shock removal

• Move to the rear. Lift and support the rear with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (14mm-19mm).
• Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Access the upper shock mount nuts from inside the trunk (pull back trunk trim as needed) using a trim clip tool and deep socket set (10mm-19mm).
• Remove the upper nuts with a ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the shock from below.

Step 7: Rear shock install

• Install the new rear shock with its bushings/washers in the same order as removed. Wrong bushing order causes clunks.
• Start the upper nuts by hand using a deep socket set (10mm-19mm), but don’t fully tighten yet.
• Install the lower bolt using a socket set (14mm-19mm).
• Preload the suspension: raise the control arm with the floor jack until the car just begins to lift off the stand (this simulates normal ride height).
• Now torque the lower bolt using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Torque the upper nuts using a torque wrench (3/8"): Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 6-7 on the other rear side.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a ratchet (1/2") and socket.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive. Listen for clunks and check steering feel.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench (1/2").
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
• Watch for uneven tire wear over the next few weeks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.