🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause looseness, clunking, or uneven tire wear. On your Outback, you’ll remove the old outer end, install the new one to the same approximate length, and then get a proper alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Outback on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses—rust and dirt fall straight down when working under the knuckle.
• 🧭 Keep the steering wheel centered and the key off so the steering doesn’t turn unexpectedly.
• 🛞 You will need a front-end alignment after this repair to prevent rapid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (50–150 ft-lbs range)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Paint marker or chalk
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Small pry bar

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end castle nut) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔧 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket before lifting.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod end stud nut; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the inner tie rod threads. This helps keep the toe close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the Outback down onto jack stands and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Loosen the tie rod end jam nut

• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with an open-end wrench if needed, and loosen the jam nut using the correctly sized open-end wrench.
• Don’t spin it far—just break it loose.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers (use diagonal cutters if it’s too rusty).
• Remove the tie rod end castle nut using a 17mm socket.
• If the nut won’t come off cleanly, apply penetrating oil and use a breaker bar.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A “tie rod end puller” is a clamp tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the boot.
• If it’s stubborn, add penetrating oil and try again—avoid hammering directly on the stud threads.

Step 5: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand.
• Count the turns as you remove it, and write the number down (example: 17 turns). This helps keep alignment close.
• Back the jam nut off slightly with the open-end wrench if needed.

Step 6: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted using your hands.
• Make sure the tie rod end stud points down into the knuckle hole cleanly (don’t force it at an angle).

Step 7: Tighten the stud nut and install a new cotter pin

• Install the castle nut using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up at torque, tighten the nut slightly more until it aligns (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over using needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with the correctly sized open-end wrench to prevent twisting.
• Tighten the jam nut using the correctly sized open-end wrench.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench if you can fit a torque adapter/crowfoot squarely.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the Outback off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stopped; listen for clunks and confirm smooth movement.
• 🛣️ Do a short, slow test drive. If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, limit driving.
• 📏 Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can). This is critical after any tie rod work.
• 🔍 Recheck the castle nut/cotter pin and the jam nut after the test drive for peace of mind.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$400 (parts + labor + alignment varies)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.