🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and removes play, but you must keep the toe setting close and then get a professional alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

Assumption: standard OEM-style outer tie rod end.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Use jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• Keep fingers clear of the knuckle/tie rod while separating the joint.
• If you use a “pickle fork” (a wedge tool), it can tear the rubber boot.
• After replacement, drive carefully to an alignment shop; incorrect toe can cause poor handling and rapid tire wear.
• Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Lug nut socket (19mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2")
• Torque wrench (3/8")
• Open-end wrench set (14mm-22mm)
• Socket set (10mm-22mm)
• Pliers (needle-nose)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Ball-peen hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (if damaged or heavily rusted) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod end you’re working on is easy to reach.
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut at the knuckle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and support the vehicle with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Mark your current toe setting (helps get you to the alignment shop)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Measure from a fixed point to the tie rod end (example: from the end of the inner tie rod to the center of the stud) using a tape measure, and write it down.
• Also count the turns when removing.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench (size varies) so it doesn’t twist.
• Loosen the jam nut using the correctly sized open-end wrench.
• Do not move the jam nut far yet—just “crack it loose.”

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks, remove the pieces with needle-nose pliers.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle

• Remove the nut from the tie rod stud using the correct size socket and a breaker bar if needed.
• If the stud spins, use an open-end wrench on the stud’s flat (if present) while turning the nut with a socket.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud “pops” free.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle (not the threads) with a ball-peen hammer to help it release.
• A tie rod end puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without damaging the boot.

Step 7: Unthread and remove the old tie rod end

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and record the number.
• Clean the threads with a wire brush.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand for the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align the stud with the knuckle hole and insert it fully.

Step 9: Tighten the stud nut and install a new cotter pin (if equipped)

• Tighten the stud nut using a socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to factory specification (refer to Subaru service information for your Outback)
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.
• If the cotter pin holes don’t line up, tighten the nut slightly to align—do not loosen to align.

Step 10: Set and tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with the correctly sized open-end wrench to keep it from turning.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end using an open-end wrench and finish with a torque wrench if you have access.
• Torque to factory specification (refer to Subaru service information for your Outback)

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to factory specification (refer to Subaru service information for your Outback)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or clicks.
• Road test at low speed first; steering should feel centered and stable.
• Visually confirm the cotter pin is installed (if equipped) and the boot is not twisted.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + basic alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.