🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear when the joint is loose or the boot is torn.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: You’re replacing the outer tie rod end (at the wheel).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Accord with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and keep the car on level ground.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads.
• ⚠️ Plan for a professional alignment after this repair.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Measuring tape
• Wire brush
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Center the steering wheel and remove the key so the steering stays put.
• Break loose the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray the tie rod threads and the joint nut with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the front corner using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark your starting point (helps keep toe close)

• Clean the exposed threads using a wire brush.
• Put a reference mark across the jam nut and inner tie rod using a paint marker.
• Measure the distance from the jam nut to the end of the threads using a measuring tape and write it down.
• This helps the new part land close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod area with a 19mm wrench and loosen the jam nut with a 17mm wrench (sizes can vary by brand of replacement part).
• Only crack it loose 1/4–1/2 turn for now.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and side cutters.
• Remove the castle nut from the tie rod stud using the correct wrench (commonly 17mm wrench).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• If it’s stubborn, tap the side of the knuckle boss lightly using a hammer (16 oz) while the puller is tensioned.
• Puller protects boots and threads.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
• Write the number down (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Torque the castle nut and install a new cotter pin

• Tighten the castle nut using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs) and the correct socket/wrench.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 17mm wrench and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs).
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn lock-to-lock slowly to confirm nothing binds or clicks.
• Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed, keeping a light grip on the wheel.
• Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear and steering pull.
• Recheck for any looseness or a torn boot after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$80 (parts only, one side)

You Save: $100-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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