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2010 Honda Accord
2010 Honda Accord
EX - Inline 4 2.4L
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Honda Accord Manual Transmission Fluid Change (2008-12)

Honda Accord Manual Transmission Fluid Change (2008-12)

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Change Manual Transmission Fluid on a 2010 Honda Accord (Drain & Refill)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, Honda MTF capacity, crush washers, and 29 ft-lb torque specs

How to Change Manual Transmission Fluid on a 2010 Honda Accord (Drain & Refill)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, Honda MTF capacity, crush washers, and 29 ft-lb torque specs

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Manual Transmission Fluid Change

On your Accord’s manual transmission, the fluid lubricates the gears and synchronizers so shifting stays smooth and parts don’t wear out early. This job is a simple drain-and-refill, but the car must be level so the fluid level is correct.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🔥 Let the drivetrain cool; hot fluid can burn skin.
  • 📏 Keep the car level when filling; nose-up changes the fluid level.
  • 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; fluid can splash when the plug breaks loose.
  • ✅ No battery disconnect is required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lb range)
  • Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
  • Fluid transfer pump (specialty)
  • Shop rags
  • Trim clip remover
  • Phillips screwdriver

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) - Qty: 3 quarts
  • Transmission drain/fill plug crush washers - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Make sure the transmission is in neutral and set the parking brake.
  • Pro tip: Loosen the fill plug first. If it’s stuck, you won’t be stranded with an empty transmission.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the proper front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the proper front support points and lower the car onto them.
  • Confirm the car is stable and as level as possible.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Use a Phillips screwdriver and trim clip remover to remove the screws/clips.
  • Set the shield and hardware aside so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Locate the fill plug and drain plug

  • Find the fill plug on the side of the transmission case (higher up).
  • Find the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission case (lowest point).
  • Both plugs typically accept a 3/8" drive ratchet directly in the square recess.

Step 4: Crack loose the fill plug first

  • Use a 3/8" drive breaker bar to loosen the fill plug counterclockwise.
  • Once loose, snug it back in by hand (do not remove it yet).

Step 5: Drain the old transmission fluid

  • Position a drain pan under the drain plug.
  • Use a 3/8" drive breaker bar to remove the drain plug.
  • Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip.
  • Wipe the drain plug clean with shop rags.
  • Replace the drain plug crush washer with a new one.

Step 6: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lb).

Step 7: Fill the transmission with new fluid

  • Remove the fill plug fully using a 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Install a new crush washer on the fill plug (don’t tighten it yet).
  • Use a fluid transfer pump (specialty) to pump Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) into the fill hole.
  • Fill until fluid just begins to seep out of the fill hole (this is the correct level when the car is level).
  • Pro tip: Slow down near the end to avoid a mess.

Step 8: Reinstall and torque the fill plug

  • Thread the fill plug in by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the fill plug to Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lb).
  • Wipe any spilled fluid off the case with shop rags.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the car

  • Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip remover and Phillips screwdriver.
  • Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and, with the clutch pressed, shift through all gears while parked (don’t force it).
  • Take a short test drive and verify smooth shifting and no unusual noises.
  • Park and check underneath for any seepage around the fill and drain plugs.
  • Dispose of used fluid at a recycling center or parts store that accepts waste oil/fluids.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $105-$285 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.


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