How to Replace Low & High Beam Headlight Bulbs on a 2013 Subaru Outback (H11/9005)
Step-by-step wheel-well access method with required tools, bulb types, safety tips, and testing checks
How to Replace Low & High Beam Headlight Bulbs on a 2013 Subaru Outback (H11/9005)
Step-by-step wheel-well access method with required tools, bulb types, safety tips, and testing checks


🔧 Outback - Headlight Bulb Replacement
On your Outback, the “headlight bulbs” could mean the low beams or the high beams (they use different bulb types). The replacement is done from behind the headlight through the front fender access door—no bumper removal needed.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Turn lights OFF and let bulbs cool (they get very hot).
- ⚠️ Wear gloves and don’t touch the new bulb glass with bare fingers (skin oil can shorten bulb life).
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the ignition while your hands are near wiring.
- ⚠️ Park on level ground and chock a rear wheel before turning the steering wheel for access.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Wheel chocks
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Low beam headlight bulb (H11) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- High beam headlight bulb (9005) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to neutral, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind a rear tire.
- Turn the headlight switch OFF and open the hood.
- Decide which bulbs you’re replacing: low beam (H11) and/or high beam (9005).
Quick question (so I aim you at the right bulb): Are you replacing the low beams, the high beams, or both?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Create access at the wheel well (one side at a time)
- Turn the steering wheel to point the front tire away from the side you’re working on (gives you room).
- Use a flashlight to locate the small access door/cover in the front fender liner behind the headlight area.
Step 2: Open the fender liner access door
- Use a trim clip removal tool (a small pry tool made for plastic clips) to pop out the plastic fasteners holding the access door.
- If a clip is stubborn, gently help it with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Fold the access door open to reach the back of the headlight housing.
Step 3: Identify the correct bulb socket
- Use a flashlight and find the bulb you’re replacing.
- Typically, low beam (H11) and high beam (9005) are separate twist-lock bulbs with their own electrical connector.
- If unsure, compare to new bulb base shape.
Step 4: Disconnect the bulb electrical connector
- Put on nitrile gloves.
- Press the connector tab and pull the connector straight off the bulb.
- If it won’t move, wiggle gently while pulling—don’t yank the wires.
Step 5: Remove the old bulb
- Grip the bulb base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock.
- Pull the bulb straight out.
Step 6: Install the new bulb (no touching the glass)
- Still wearing nitrile gloves, insert the new bulb into the housing in the same orientation as the old one.
- Rotate clockwise until it locks fully in place.
- Fully seated bulb prevents flicker and melting.
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector onto the bulb until it clicks/locks.
Step 8: Test the bulb before closing everything up
- Turn the headlight switch ON and verify that side works (low or high beam as applicable).
- Turn lights OFF again before reassembling.
Step 9: Close the access door and repeat on the other side
- Close the fender liner access door.
- Reinstall the plastic clips using your fingers; use the trim clip removal tool to help seat them if needed.
- Repeat Steps 1–8 on the other headlight.
✅ After Repair
- Verify both sides match in brightness and color (replacing in pairs helps).
- Check low beam aim at night—if a bulb wasn’t seated fully, the beam pattern can look “wrong.”
- If a new bulb doesn’t light, recheck the connector click and that the bulb is fully twist-locked.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $120-$250 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only, depending on bulb brand/type)
You Save: $90-$130 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















