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2009 Ford F-150
2009 Ford F-150
FX4 - V8 5.4L
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  • Guides
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  • Ford F-150
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  • 2009
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  • How to Replace Front Strut Assemblies on a 2009 Ford F-150 (Quick-Strut Guide)
How to Replace Front Strut Shock Assembly 2009-2014 Ford F-150

How to Replace Front Strut Shock Assembly 2009-2014 Ford F-150

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Strut Assemblies on a 2009 Ford F-150 (Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install

How to Replace Front Strut Assemblies on a 2009 Ford F-150 (Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install

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Orion Logo White

🔧 F-150 - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

On your F-150, the “strut” is the front shock/coil assembly. Replacing it restores ride control and fixes clunks, bouncing, or uneven tire wear caused by worn struts/mounts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours (both fronts)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on top of the strut unless you are using a spring compressor (the coil spring is stored energy).
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the lower control arm.
  • ⚠️ If using a spring compressor: it’s a specialty tool; misuse can cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-300 ft-lbs range)
  • 10mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm combination wrench
  • 18mm combination wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Hammer (16 oz)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount hardware (nuts) - Qty: 6
  • Front lower strut bolt & nut (if worn/corroded) - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Soak the lower strut bolt/nut and sway bar link nut with penetrating oil 10–15 minutes ahead.
  • Tip: Buy complete struts to avoid spring compressor.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the front

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose (about 1/2 turn).
  • Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front crossmember.
  • Set the frame onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower the truck onto them.
  • Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Free the strut from hoses/brackets

  • Locate the brake hose/ABS wire brackets near the strut area.
  • Use a 10mm socket (or the correct size present) to remove any small bracket bolts, then move the lines aside so they won’t get stretched.
  • Use needle-nose pliers and a flat trim tool if you need to pop any plastic clips free.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it blocks strut removal)

  • At the lower control arm, remove the sway bar end link nut using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the wrench while turning the nut with the socket.

Step 4: Support the lower control arm

  • Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm and apply light upward pressure.
  • This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when the strut bolt comes out.

Step 5: Remove the lower strut bolt/nut

  • Use a paint marker to mark the bolt/nut position (helps you reassemble consistently).
  • Remove the lower strut bolt/nut using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
  • If the bolt is stuck, tap it out with a hammer (16 oz) while supporting the strut with your other hand.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Under the hood, locate the top of the strut tower.
  • Remove the 3 upper mount nuts using a 15mm socket.
  • Do not remove the center strut shaft nut. (That’s the one holding the spring to the strut.)

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

  • Lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) slightly to create clearance.
  • Work the strut out of the wheel well. Use a pry bar (18") gently if needed to clear the lower mount.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

  • Position the new strut into the tower first, then start the 3 top nuts by hand using the 15mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
  • Align the lower strut mount and insert the lower bolt. Use the hammer (16 oz) lightly if needed.

Step 9: Tighten fasteners to spec

  • Tighten the 3 upper strut mount nuts using the torque wrench: Torque to 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten the lower strut bolt/nut using the torque wrench: Torque to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
  • If removed, tighten the sway bar end link nut using the torque wrench: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall any brake hose/ABS brackets using the 10mm socket snugly.

Step 10: Reinstall wheel and lower the truck

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using the torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other side

  • Repeat Steps 1–10 for the other front strut so both sides match.
  • Tip: Always replace front struts in pairs.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and turn the steering lock-to-lock while parked; listen for clunks.
  • Test drive slowly first, then at road speed; verify no pulling, popping, or vibration.
  • Get a front-end alignment done soon after replacement to protect tires and handling.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after ~80–160 km (50–100 miles) using the torque wrench: 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹35,000 (parts + labor, both fronts)

DIY Cost: ₹10,000-₹24,000 (parts only, both fronts)

You Save: ₹8,000-₹11,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.


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