How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Honda Accord (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and lock ring torque spec (93 N·m / 69 ft-lb)
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Honda Accord (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and lock ring torque spec (93 N·m / 69 ft-lb)


🔧 Accord - Fuel Pump Replacement
The fuel pump on your Accord is an in-tank module under the rear seat. You’ll relieve fuel pressure, open the access cover, unplug and disconnect the fuel lines, then swap the pump module and seal to prevent leaks and hard-start issues.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, flames, or hot work lights near the car.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Use only non-sparking methods around the pump opening; avoid steel hammering on the lock ring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (in-lb and ft-lb capable)
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Trim removal tool (plastic)
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
- Honda fuel pump locknut wrench (specialty)
- Shop towels
- Catch pan (shallow)
- Flashlight (LED)
- Permanent marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Rear seat access cover butyl sealant (if damaged) - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips (if any break) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and keep doors open for ventilation.
- Lower the fuel level if possible (around 1/4 tank makes it less messy).
- Have shop towels ready to catch fuel drips and a shallow catch pan under the access opening.
- Plan to replace the pump seal/O-ring every time the module is removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.
- Pull the fuel pump fuse/relay (use needle-nose pliers if needed).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank the engine for 3–5 seconds to remove remaining pressure, then turn the key OFF.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside.
Step 3: Remove the rear seat bottom
- From the rear footwell area, locate the seat bottom release points (near the front edge of the seat).
- Use a trim removal tool (plastic) to help pop the seat bottom up if it’s tight. A trim tool is a plastic pry tool that helps prevent interior damage.
- Lift the seat bottom out and set it aside.
Step 4: Open the fuel pump access cover
- Locate the round/oval access cover on the floor under the rear seat.
- Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 (or 10mm socket if equipped) to remove the access cover fasteners.
- Carefully peel up the cover; use shop towels to clean dust so debris doesn’t fall into the tank.
Step 5: Unplug the fuel pump connector and label lines
- Unplug the electrical connector at the pump module.
- Use a permanent marker to mark which line goes where (helps avoid mix-ups).
Step 6: Disconnect the fuel lines
- Wrap the connections with shop towels to catch any spray/drips.
- Release the quick-connect fittings using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (this tool slides into the fitting to release the internal retaining fingers).
- If a small lock tab is present, gently lift it with a small flat-blade screwdriver before disconnecting.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- Use the Honda fuel pump locknut wrench (specialty) to loosen the lock ring. This wrench fits the ring so you can turn it without sparking.
- Turn the ring counterclockwise until it releases, then remove it.
Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module and old seal
- Slowly lift the pump module straight up, tilting slightly as needed to clear the float arm.
- Let fuel drain into the tank opening, then move the module to a catch pan.
- Remove the old tank seal/O-ring from the opening and discard it.
Step 9: Install the new seal and new pump module
- Wipe the sealing surface clean with shop towels.
- Install the new fuel pump module seal/O-ring into the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and is not twisted).
- Lower the new pump module into the tank, aligning it with the marks/locator tabs.
- Keep dirt out of the tank.
Step 10: Reinstall and torque the lock ring
- Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading/binding.
- Use the Honda fuel pump locknut wrench (specialty) with a torque wrench to tighten the lock ring.
- Torque to 93 N·m (69 ft-lb)
Step 11: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical connector
- Reconnect the fuel lines until they click/lock fully.
- Gently tug each line by hand to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect the pump electrical connector.
Step 12: Reinstall access cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover and fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 (or 10mm socket if equipped).
- If the butyl seal is damaged, apply new rear seat access cover butyl sealant before closing the cover.
- Reinstall the rear seat bottom by lining up the hooks/clips and pushing down firmly until it snaps in.
Step 13: Reinstall fuel pump fuse/relay and reconnect battery
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay in the fuse box.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
✅ After Repair
- Turn the key to ON (do not start) for 2–3 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3–4 times to prime the system.
- Start the engine and let it idle while you check the pump top and fuel line connections for any seepage.
- If a fuel smell persists, shut it down and re-check the lock ring seating and the line clicks.
- Test drive close to home first, then re-check for leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,150 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $200-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















