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2011 Ford F-150
2011 Ford F-150
Lariat Limited - V8 6.2L
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How To Replace Side Mirror on 2011 Ford 150

How To Replace Side Mirror on 2011 Ford 150

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How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2011 Ford F-150 (Left or Right)

Step-by-step mirror removal and installation with tools, parts list, wiring tips, and 89 in-lb torque spec

How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2011 Ford F-150 (Left or Right)

Step-by-step mirror removal and installation with tools, parts list, wiring tips, and 89 in-lb torque spec

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ F-150 - Side View Mirror Replacement

Replacing a side view mirror usually means removing a small interior trim panel (and sometimes the full door panel) to unplug the mirror wiring and remove the three mounting nuts. The job is straightforward, but you’ll work around plastic clips and electrical connectors, so take your time to avoid breaking anything.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.8 hours (per mirror)


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Work on level ground with the key out of the truck.
  • āš ļø If your mirror has power/heat/turn signal/puddle lamps, disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging connectors.
  • āš ļø Do not pull on wiring; release connector locks first.
  • āš ļø Use plastic trim tools to avoid cracking panels and scratching paint.
  • āš ļø Support the mirror while removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall and chip the door.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Plastic trim removal tool set
  • Door panel clip puller (specialty)
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 1/4" drive extension 6"
  • 7mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Flat-blade screwdriver small
  • Torque wrench (in-lb)
  • Painter’s tape
  • Magnetic pickup tool

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Side view mirror assembly - Qty: 1 (left or right, match options)
  • Door panel trim clips - Qty: 5-10 (some may break)
  • Mirror mounting gasket - Qty: 1 (if not included with mirror)

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your F-150 on level ground and open the window on the door you’re working on.
  • Apply painter’s tape around the mirror base on the outside of the door to protect paint.
  • If the mirror is powered: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
  • Have a small container ready for screws and nuts.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the inner mirror ā€œsailā€ trim

  • At the top-front corner of the door (by the mirror), use a plastic trim removal tool set to pry off the small triangular trim cover.
  • If there’s a small cover cap hiding a screw, pop the cap with a flat-blade screwdriver small first.
  • Pull straight out to save the clips.

Step 2: Decide which access method your door uses

  • Look behind where the sail trim came off.
  • If you can reach the mirror electrical connector and all three mirror nuts from this opening, skip to Step 5.
  • If you cannot reach the connector or nuts, continue to Step 3 to remove the door panel.

Step 3: Remove the door panel fasteners

  • Use a plastic trim removal tool set to pry up the window/lock switch panel, then unplug the connectors (press the lock tab with your thumb or a flat-blade screwdriver small).
  • Remove screws using a 7mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet (common locations: inside the pull handle and along the bottom edge).
  • If equipped, remove any visible screws with a Phillips screwdriver #2.

Step 4: Release the door panel clips and lift the panel off

  • Start at the bottom corner: use a door panel clip puller (specialty) to pop the panel clips loose around the perimeter.
  • Lift the door panel up and off the top window channel.
  • Unplug any remaining electrical connectors (courtesy light, speaker, etc.).

Step 5: Unplug the mirror electrical connector

  • Locate the mirror wiring connector near the front of the door.
  • Press the connector lock tab and separate it by hand; if it’s tight, use a flat-blade screwdriver small gently on the lock.
  • Never pull on the wires.

Step 6: Remove the mirror mounting nuts

  • Support the mirror with one hand on the outside of the door.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 1/4" drive extension 6" to remove the three mirror nuts.
  • If a nut drops inside the door, retrieve it with a magnetic pickup tool.

Step 7: Remove the mirror and transfer parts if needed

  • Pull the mirror away from the door and feed the wiring through the hole.
  • If your new mirror did not include a foam gasket, move the old gasket over or install the new one now.

Step 8: Install the new mirror

  • Feed the wiring through the door opening and set the mirror onto the studs.
  • Thread the nuts on by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket to snug them evenly, then use a torque wrench (in-lb) to finish: Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm).

Step 9: Reconnect wiring and reassemble the door

  • Reconnect the mirror connector until it clicks.
  • If you removed the door panel: reconnect all door connectors, hang the panel on the top lip, then press the clips back in by hand.
  • Reinstall door screws using a 7mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Reinstall the sail trim by lining up the clips and pushing it straight in.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.

āœ… After Repair

  • Turn the key on and test mirror functions: adjust glass, heat (if equipped), turn signal lamp (if equipped), puddle/courtesy lamp (if equipped), and power fold (if equipped).
  • Close the door and confirm the mirror sits flush and doesn’t vibrate excessively.
  • Take a short drive and listen for wind noise; if you hear it, re-check the gasket seating and nut torque.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$900 (parts + labor, varies by mirror options)

DIY Cost: $80-$550 (parts only, varies by mirror options)

You Save: $170-$350+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours per side.


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