🔧 Outback - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the cable-and-track assembly that raises and lowers the rear door glass. When it fails, the window may move crooked, get stuck, fall into the door, or the motor may run but the glass won’t move.

Quick questions (pick one each): Which rear door (left or right)? And are you replacing the regulator only (reusing the motor) or a regulator + motor assembly?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (first-timer)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the regulator arms/cables; they can pinch hard.
• ⚠️ Support the window glass with tape before unbolting it so it doesn’t drop.
• ⚠️ Turn the key OFF and remove it before unplugging any door wiring connectors.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is strongly recommended: disconnect the negative terminal to prevent accidental shorts while working inside the door.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Inch-pound torque wrench (20–200 in-lb range)
• Painters tape (1.5" or wider)
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator - Qty: 1
• Rear window motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included with regulator)
• Door panel trim clips - Qty: 4-10 (as needed; clips often break)
• Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1 (as needed)

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Open the affected rear door fully for working room.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Trim clip tool = plastic pry tool for panels.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door switch panel

• Use a trim clip removal tool to carefully pry up the switch panel.
• Unplug the window switch connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.

Step 2: Remove rear door panel screws

• Remove the screw in the inner door pull/handle area using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
• Remove any additional visible screws in the armrest/pull pocket using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.

Step 3: Remove the rear door panel (trim panel)

• Start at the bottom edge and use the trim clip removal tool to pop the clips free around the perimeter.
• Lift the whole panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
• If equipped with handle cables/rods, use a small flat-blade screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to release the plastic retainers, then unhook the cable/rod ends.

Step 4: Peel back the vapor barrier

• Carefully peel the plastic moisture sheet (vapor barrier) back enough to access the regulator openings.
• If the adhesive won’t stick later, plan to reseal it with butyl tape.

Step 5: Position and secure the window glass

• Reconnect the window switch temporarily, reconnect the battery temporarily, and turn key ON to move the glass until you can see the two glass clamp bolts through the access holes.
• Turn key OFF again and disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Place several long strips of painters tape from the outside of the glass over the top of the door frame to hold the glass up when it’s unclamped.
• If the regulator is broken and the glass won’t move, manually slide the glass to the full-up position and tape it securely.

Step 6: Unclamp the glass from the regulator

• Loosen (do not fully remove if not necessary) the two glass clamp bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Lift the glass fully up by hand and add more painters tape to keep it firmly supported.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb) when tightening later.

Step 7: Unplug the window motor

• Unplug the regulator/motor electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling it free.

Step 8: Remove the regulator (and motor if attached)

• Remove the regulator mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 6" socket extension.
• Carefully maneuver the regulator assembly out through the large access opening.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb) during installation.

Step 9 (If needed): Transfer the motor to the new regulator

• If your new part is regulator-only, remove the motor from the old regulator using a 10mm socket.
• Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten evenly.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb).
• Keep fingers away from cable drum.

Step 10: Install the new regulator

• Feed the new regulator into the door and align it to the mounting holes.
• Start all bolts by hand first, then tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb).

Step 11: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Lower the taped-up glass carefully into the regulator clamps.
• Tighten the clamp bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb).
• Remove the painters tape after the glass is clamped.

Step 12: Function test before reassembly

• Reconnect the motor connector and reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Turn key ON and run the window fully down and fully up using the switch.
• Listen for clicking/grinding and watch for the glass tilting; if it tilts, stop and re-check glass seating in the clamps.
• Turn key OFF and disconnect the battery negative terminal again using a 10mm socket before reinstalling the vapor barrier and panel.

Step 13: Reinstall vapor barrier and door panel

• Press the vapor barrier back into place; use butyl tape if needed for a good seal.
• Hang the door panel on the top lip first, then press the clips in around the edges by hand.
• Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
• Reconnect the switch connector and snap the switch panel back in place.

Step 14: Final power check

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Verify the rear window works from both the rear switch and the driver master switch.

---

✅ After Repair

• Run the repaired window up/down 5 times and confirm it moves smoothly and seals at the top.
• Check the door panel for rattles: press around the perimeter to ensure all clips are seated.
• Make sure the vapor barrier is sealed; this helps prevent water leaks into the cabin.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor) per rear door

DIY Cost: $90-$280 (parts only) per rear door

You Save: $360-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.