🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine rock too much, which can cause clunks on takeoff, vibration at idle, and harsh shifting feel. On your Outback, the common “engine mounts” are the left and right lower mounts (rubber insulators) plus the upper “pitch stop” mount that limits fore-aft engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing both lower engine mounts + upper pitch stop.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mount bolts; an unsupported engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface; use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and subframe while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll be working near hot exhaust and radiator components.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable before working near the starter/alternator area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Extensions 3" and 6"
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-200 Nm
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount (RH) - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount (LH) - Qty: 1
• Pitch stop mount (upper) - Qty: 1
• Mount hardware (nuts/bolts as needed) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench (negative terminal first).
• Plan how you’ll support the engine:
  • Use an engine support bar (a bar that holds the engine from above).
  • Or use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan (the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan).
• Spray visible mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove top-side components for access

• Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by pulling upward firmly by hand.
• Loosen the intake snorkel/air duct clamps using a flathead screwdriver and remove any clips using a trim clip removal tool.
• If the battery and/or battery tray blocks access to the left mount area, remove it using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.

Step 2: Replace the pitch stop mount (upper mount)

• Locate the pitch stop (a small “dogbone” mount) at the top rear of the engine, connecting the engine to the firewall area.
• Mark the mount orientation with a paint marker.
• Remove the two pitch stop bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Install the new pitch stop in the same orientation, start both bolts by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to Subaru OEM specification (service manual value required).
• Tip: Hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading.

Step 3: Raise and support the front of the vehicle

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds or approved support points.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm stability.

Step 4: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it per its instructions and apply light tension.
• If using a jack, place the wood block on the floor jack and gently contact the oil pan with light pressure (do not lift yet).
• Tip: “Light pressure” means no engine movement yet.

Step 5: Remove the right (passenger-side) lower engine mount

• From underneath, locate the right mount between the engine bracket and the front subframe.
• Remove any splash shields blocking access using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
• Remove the mount through-bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (use a 17mm wrench to hold the nut if it spins).
• Remove the mount-to-subframe nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket or 14mm wrench (varies by fastener location).
• Slowly raise the engine just enough to unload the mount using the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar).
• Remove the mount from the subframe area. A universal joint socket adapter and extensions 3" and 6" help in tight spots.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation, then start all fasteners by hand.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to Subaru OEM specification (service manual values required).

Step 6: Remove the left (driver-side) lower engine mount

• Locate the left mount between the engine bracket and the subframe.
• If access is tight from above, move aside any brackets/lines carefully (do not bend hard lines). Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket as needed.
• Remove the mount through-bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the mount-to-subframe fasteners using a 14mm socket/14mm wrench.
• Adjust engine height with the floor jack and wood block until the mount slides out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all fasteners, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to Subaru OEM specification (service manual values required).
• Tip: If holes don’t line up, change height 5-10 mm.

Step 7: Reinstall shields, intake parts, and battery

• Reinstall any splash shields using a 10mm socket and push-clips with a trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the battery tray/battery (if removed) using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reconnect the battery (positive first, negative last) using a 10mm wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for new clunks or rattles.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from P to R to D. Watch for excessive engine movement.
• Road test at low speed. Recheck for vibration and knocking on acceleration/deceleration.
• Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the test drive (engine cool) using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.