🔧 GX460 - Engine Mount Replacement

Your GX460’s engine mounts are rubber-and-metal supports that hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you may feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration, or see the engine “lift” when you rev it.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not get under the engine if it’s only held up by a jack; always keep stable supports in place.
• ⚠️ When lifting the engine, lift slowly and only as much as needed to unload the mount.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between jack and oil pan; never jack directly on the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if your tools may contact the starter/positive cable area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Deep socket set 14mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• Ratchet extensions set
• Universal joint adapter 3/8-inch drive
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware set - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket if you’ll be working near the starter/positive cable area.
• Plan your engine support method:
  • An engine support bar holds the engine from above using the fender rails (safer and steadier than jacking the engine).
  • If you do not use a support bar, you will lift the engine slightly from below with a floor jack and wood block.
• Take photos before removing anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the GX460

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the frame-approved jacking point.
• Set the frame onto jack stands and verify stability by gently rocking the vehicle.
• Keep the floor jack available (you’ll use it later to support the engine if needed).

Step 2: Remove the front skid plates/splash shields

• Use a socket set 10mm-14mm and ratchet extensions set to remove the skid plate bolts.
• If any plastic clips are present, remove them with a trim clip tool.
• Set plates and hardware aside in order.

Step 3: Locate both engine mounts and pre-soak fasteners

• From below, locate the left and right engine mounts (rubber mounts between the engine brackets and the frame perches).
• Spray mount nuts/bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.

Step 4: Support the engine

• Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) per its instructions and apply light tension to hold the engine.
• Alternative: Position a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the engine with a wood block between the jack pad and the oil pan.
• Jack up slowly until you just see the engine weight begin to unload from the mounts.
• Lift only 5–15 mm if possible.

Step 5: Remove the mount-to-frame fasteners (one side at a time)

• Pick one side (left or right) and stay on that side until the mount is swapped.
• Use a deep socket set 14mm-19mm with a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the mount nuts on the frame perch.
• Use a universal joint adapter 3/8-inch drive and ratchet extensions set if access is tight.

Step 6: Remove the engine-mount through-bolt

• Locate the long through-bolt that connects the engine bracket to the mount.
• Hold the bolt head with a wrench set 10mm-19mm and remove the nut with a socket set 10mm-19mm.
• If the bolt is bound up, slightly raise or lower the engine using the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar) until the bolt slides out easier.

Step 7: Remove the old mount

• With the through-bolt out and frame nuts removed, wiggle the mount out.
• You may need to raise the engine a bit more using the floor jack to create clearance.
• Compare the old and new mount orientation before installing.

Step 8: Install the new mount (same side)

• Position the new mount onto the frame perch by hand.
• Start the mount-to-frame nuts by hand using your fingers first to prevent cross-threading.
• Align the engine bracket and insert the through-bolt by hand; use gentle engine height adjustments with the floor jack as needed.
• Snug fasteners with a ratchet but do not fully torque yet.

Step 9: Repeat for the other engine mount

• Move to the other side and repeat Steps 5–8 using the same tools.
• Keep the engine supported the entire time.

Step 10: Torque all mount fasteners

• Lower/relax the engine support so the engine sits naturally on the new mounts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs to tighten:
  • Engine-mount through-bolts: Torque to Lexus OEM specification
  • Mount-to-frame nuts/bolts: Torque to Lexus OEM specification
• Final-torque only at normal ride position.

Step 11: Reinstall skid plates/splash shields

• Reinstall skid plates using a socket set 10mm-14mm and ratchet extensions set.
• Tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs to Lexus OEM specification (skid plate fasteners vary by hardware).

Step 12: Lower the GX460 and reconnect battery

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower the vehicle.
• If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and tighten securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for abnormal knocking or metal contact.
• With the hood open and a helper in the driver’s seat, check for excessive engine movement during a light shift from Park to Reverse to Drive (foot firmly on brake).
• Test drive and verify clunks/vibration are improved.
• Recheck for any loose skid plate hardware after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.