How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb)
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb)


đź”§ Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Escape uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) to create spark. Replacing weak or failed coils can fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, and a flashing check engine light.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool first; coils sit on a hot cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the vehicle so the engine can’t be started accidentally.
- ⚠️ If you disconnect the battery: use the correct procedure and don’t let the wrench touch body metal.
- ⚠️ Pull on connectors by the plastic tab—never by the wires.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension for 1/4" ratchet
- Torque wrench (in-lb capable)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4 Replace as a set for best reliability
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil boots (if not included with coils) - Qty: 4
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- Optional but safest: disconnect the negative battery cable (black). Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Grip the cover and pull straight up to release it from the rubber grommets.
- Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils sit on top of the engine valve cover in a row, one per cylinder.
- Each coil has an electrical connector and a small hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug one coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back.
- If it’s stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver gently to help lift the tab—don’t pry hard. Plastic gets brittle with age
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the bolt.
- Put the bolt somewhere safe; it’s small and easy to lose.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil gently left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
- If the rubber boot stays stuck down on the spark plug, use needle-nose pliers carefully to pull the boot out.
- Boot = the rubber sleeve on the coil
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the new boot opening (a pea-sized smear). Helps prevent sticking and moisture
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat onto the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the hold-down bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with an 8mm socket, then torque with a torque wrench (in-lb capable) to 62 in-lb (7 Nm).
- Do not over-tighten—threads are in aluminum
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks and feels locked.
Step 9: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Do the coils one at a time so you don’t mix up connectors.
- Use shop towels to wipe away any dirt around the coil holes before installing the new coils.
Step 10: Reinstall engine cover and reconnect battery (if disconnected)
- Press the engine cover back onto its grommets until fully seated.
- If you disconnected the battery, reinstall and tighten the negative cable using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light was on for a misfire, it may take a few drive cycles to turn off. A scan tool can clear codes immediately.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck for any new warning lights or rough running.
- If misfire remains, the next common items are spark plugs and fuel injector issues.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















