🔧 Tucson - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the front wheels turn. When it wears out, you can get clunking, loose steering, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Tucson with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep the steering wheel centered and ignition OFF while working.
• 🛑 You should get a front-end alignment after replacing a tie rod end (counting turns helps, but it’s not perfect).
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses when removing the cotter pin and separating the joint.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Open-end wrench set (19mm-24mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 2 if doing both sides)
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 2 if doing both sides)
• Jam nut - Qty: 1 (only if not included/too rusty)
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Center the steering wheel and leave the ignition OFF.
• Plan an alignment after the repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner using a floor jack at the proper lift point.
• Place the vehicle on jack stands and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the current tie rod position (to keep toe close)

• Spray the jam nut and threads with penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position against the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to note how much thread is exposed, and write it down.
• Count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end later (you’ll install the new one with the same turn count).

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the tie rod end castle nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (size can vary by replacement part).

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator (specialty) between the tie rod end and the knuckle and tighten it until the stud “pops” free.
• If needed, strike the side of the knuckle boss sharply with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping tension on the separator.
• Remove the castle nut completely using the 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• Don’t hit the threaded stud directly.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut and remove the old tie rod end

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench and loosen the jam nut using an open-end wrench.
• Unscrew the outer tie rod end by hand while counting the exact number of turns (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (avoid getting it on the tapered stud).
• Screw the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align the stud with the steering knuckle hole and insert it fully.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 7: Torque the tie rod end nut and install a new cotter pin

• Torque the castle nut using a torque wrench and the correct socket: Torque to 49-59 Nm (36-43 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it aligns (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with an open-end wrench and tighten the jam nut with an open-end wrench.
• Torque to 55-75 Nm (41-55 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower your Tucson off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for any clunks.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• If you replaced only one side, compare steering feel left vs right.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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