🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Outback uses multiple mounts to hold the engine and control vibration. Replacing a worn mount usually fixes clunking on takeoff, excessive vibration at idle, or a “thump” when shifting from Park to Drive.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the engine unless it’s properly supported.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a jack and wood block before loosening any mount hardware.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the air intake or move wiring harnesses.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–19mm)
• Deep socket set (14mm–17mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter (3/8" drive)
• Wrench set (12mm–17mm)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar (12")
• Wood block (2x6" x ~12")
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right) - Qty: 1
• New engine mount hardware (bolts/nuts) - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Lift the front and support it securely on jack stands at the pinch welds or approved lift points.
• Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan with a wood block in between. The wood spreads the load so you don’t damage the oil pan.
• If you’ll move wiring or the intake snorkel, disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Quick confirmation (2 questions): Are you replacing both left and right engine mounts, or only one side? And do you mean the engine mounts (left/right) and not the transmission mount?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and wood block (2x6" x ~12") to gently take the weight of the engine.
• Raise the jack just until you see the engine “settle” and the mounts unload. Do not lift the engine high.

Step 2: Gain access to the mounts

• Remove the lower under cover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool, flat-blade screwdriver, and socket set (8mm–12mm).
• If needed for access, loosen/remove intake ducting with a flat-blade screwdriver and 10mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the mount-to-subframe nuts (one side at a time)

• Locate the mount stud(s) going down into the front subframe.
• Use a deep socket set (14mm–17mm), ratchet (3/8" drive), and extensions (3", 6", 12") to remove the nut(s).

Step 4: Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts

• Use the socket set (14mm–17mm), universal joint adapter (3/8" drive), and breaker bar (1/2" drive) as needed to remove the mount bolts from the engine-side bracket.
• If the bolt holes bind, slightly raise/lower the engine using the floor jack until the bolts come out smoothly.

Step 5: Remove the old mount and install the new mount

• Work the mount out of the pocket; use a pry bar (12") only gently if needed.
• Set the new mount in position, making sure the locating pins/ears sit correctly.
• Start all bolts/nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.

Step 6: Tighten hardware in the correct order

• Snug the engine-side mount bolts first using a ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Then snug the mount-to-subframe nut(s) using a deep socket set (14mm–17mm).
• Lower the engine slightly so it sits naturally on the mounts.
• Final-tighten all mount fasteners using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range) to Subaru factory torque specification.
• I’ll give the exact torque numbers once you confirm whether you’re doing left, right, or both (and not the transmission mount), because the fastener sizes differ by location.

Step 7: Reinstall covers and any removed intake parts

• Reinstall the under cover using the socket set (8mm–12mm) and trim clip removal tool.
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket if it was disconnected.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; check for abnormal vibration or knocking.
• With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and listen for clunks.
• Test drive at low speed; re-check that nothing contacts the exhaust or subframe.
• After the test drive, re-check mount fasteners with the torque wrench if anything feels off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.