🔧 Tucson - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Tucson, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. The typical DIY replacement is swapping the whole module through the service opening under the rear seat, then checking carefully for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, no heaters, no trouble lights with hot bulbs; use LED lighting.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to avoid spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce spark risk.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Clean dirt off the tank top before opening it; contamination can damage the new pump.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brass punch (specialty)
• Small hammer
• Shop vacuum
• Shop towels
• Catch pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• LED work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and open the fuel door to help vent the tank.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Relieve fuel pressure:
  • Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay from the under-hood fuse box (labeled for fuel pump on the cover).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank for 3-5 seconds one more time, then turn the key off.
• Drive near empty; the module lifts out easier.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Move the front seats forward and fold the rear seat backs down if needed.
• Lift/remove the rear seat bottom cushion (it’s usually retained by front clips; use a flat trim tool if needed).
• Pull back the carpet/insulation to expose the round metal service cover.
• Remove the service cover screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, then lift the cover off.

Step 2: Clean the area and disconnect the wiring

• Use a shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the pump module top.
• Wipe the area with shop towels.
• Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector(s) by releasing the tab (use needle-nose pliers only if your fingers can’t reach).

Step 3: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

• Place a catch pan and shop towels under the line connections.
• Release the quick-connect fitting(s) (press the plastic tabs in, then pull the line straight off).
• If a line won’t release, gently help the tabs with a flat trim tool—do not pry hard.

Step 4: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Identify the large plastic lock ring that holds the module down.
• Using a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer, tap the lock ring counterclockwise to loosen it.
• Use brass to reduce spark risk.
• Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up.
• Angle it slowly as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender) without bending it.
• Let fuel drain into the tank for a moment, then move the module to the catch pan.
• Remove and discard the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket).

Step 6: Install the new tank seal and module

• Install the new seal onto the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and is not twisted).
• Lower the new module in carefully, again watching the float arm.
• Align the module orientation marks/arrow with the marks on the tank opening.

Step 7: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Reinstall the lock ring by hand to start the threads.
• Use the brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap it clockwise until the lock ring alignment marks line up with the tank/module marks.
• Torque: Not a bolt torque; tighten until factory alignment marks match.

Step 8: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical connector(s)

• Push the fuel line(s) on until you feel/hear a click.
• Gently tug each line to confirm it’s locked.
• Plug in the electrical connector(s) until fully seated.

Step 9: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the service cover and screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
• Lay the carpet/insulation back in place.
• Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion (press down to re-engage the clips).

Step 10: Restore power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay in the under-hood fuse box by hand.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Cycle the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime the system.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
• Inspect the module top and fuel line connections for any wetness or fuel smell.
• If you see a leak: shut the engine off immediately and recheck the line click-fit and lock ring alignment.
• Take a short test drive, then recheck for leaks once more.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.