🔧 Outback - Power Steering Pump Replacement

If your Outback is whining when you turn, leaking fluid, or the steering feels heavy, the power steering pump may be failing. This job involves removing the drive belt, disconnecting the pressure/return lines, swapping the pump (and pulley), then refilling and bleeding the system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Let the engine cool before working near belts and exhaust.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Power steering fluid is slippery and flammable—wipe spills immediately.
• Keep hands/clothes clear of the belt drive while the engine is running.
• Battery disconnect is recommended if your hands will be near the cooling fans.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Fender cover
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm flare-nut wrench
• Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lb range)
• Hose clamp pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers
• Serpentine belt tool (14mm)
• Power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty)
• Shop rags
• Parts cleaner spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering pressure line crush washers - Qty: 2
• Power steering fluid (Dexron III/Mercon ATF compatible) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the power steering reservoir cap to relieve any residual pressure.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
• Place a drain pan under the front of the engine to catch fluid.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front of the Outback

• Use a floor jack to lift the front jacking point, then support with jack stands at the pinch welds/subframe points.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver and 10mm socket to remove clips/bolts, then lower the undertray.

Step 3: Drain as much power steering fluid as possible

• Place the drain pan under the pump area.
• Use hose clamp pliers to slide the clamp back on the return hose, then use pliers to carefully twist and pull the hose off the reservoir/pump return port (whichever is easiest to access).
• Direct the hose into the drain pan and let it drain; plug the hose with a clean rag.
• Clean spills now to prevent smoke later.

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt from the power steering pump

• Use a serpentine belt tool (14mm) on the belt tensioner to relieve tension.
• Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• If the belt is cracked/glazed, plan to replace it during reassembly.

Step 5: Disconnect the pressure line at the pump

• Use a 17mm flare-nut wrench to loosen the high-pressure line fitting at the pump.
• A “flare-nut wrench” wraps more of the fitting so it’s less likely to round off.
• If your pump uses a banjo fitting: remove the banjo bolt with a 17mm socket. A “banjo bolt” is a hollow bolt that lets fluid pass through the bolt and fitting.
• Catch fluid in the drain pan and cap/cover open lines with clean rags.
• Install new crush washers during assembly (never reuse old ones).

Step 6: Disconnect the return hose at the pump

• Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back.
• Use pliers and a gentle twist to remove the hose, then plug the hose end with a clean rag.

Step 7: Unbolt and remove the power steering pump

• Use a 12mm socket and 14mm socket (with 3/8" drive extensions as needed) to remove the pump mounting bolts.
• Lift the pump out carefully, keeping it upright to reduce mess.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for pump mounting bolts during installation.

Step 8: Transfer the pulley to the new pump (if the new pump doesn’t include one)

• Use a power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to remove the pulley from the old pump.
• A pulley puller/installer presses the pulley on/off without damaging the shaft.
• Install the pulley onto the new pump using the installer from the same kit until it aligns with the other belt pulleys.

Step 9: Install the new pump

• Position the pump and hand-start the mounting bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten mounting bolts with a 12mm socket / 14mm socket as equipped.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect the pressure line with new seals

• If it’s a banjo style: install new crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting), then tighten the banjo bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
• If it’s a threaded flare fitting: start by hand, then tighten using a 17mm flare-nut wrench until snug.

Step 11: Reconnect the return hose

• Push the hose fully onto the pump return nipple.
• Use hose clamp pliers to reinstall the clamp in the original position.

Step 12: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt correctly, then use the serpentine belt tool (14mm) to move the tensioner and slip the belt over the power steering pulley.
• Visually confirm the belt ribs are seated in every pulley groove.

Step 13: Reinstall the lower splash shield

• Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall bolts and clips.

Step 14: Refill and bleed the power steering system

• Fill the reservoir with Dexron III/Mercon ATF compatible fluid.
• With the front wheels still off the ground and engine OFF, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times.
• Check fluid level and top off.
• Start the engine and let it idle; do not hold the wheel at full lock.
• Turn lock-to-lock a few more times and watch the reservoir for foam/bubbles.
• Top off as needed and reinstall the cap.
• If it foams, shut off and wait 10 minutes.

Step 15: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower the vehicle.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine idling, check for leaks at the pressure fitting/banjo bolt and return hose.
• Road test in a parking lot: confirm smooth steering and no whining.
• Recheck fluid level after the test drive and top off to the correct mark.
• If the steering still whines, re-bleed (air can take a few cycles to purge).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $390-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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