🔧 Wrangler - Engine Mount Replacement

Your A4

Replacing the engine mounts on your Wrangler means supporting the engine, removing the left and right mounts, and installing new ones in the same positions. Worn mounts can cause clunks, excess vibration, and drivetrain movement (especially when shifting your manual transmission).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Torque specs below are common JK 3.6L values; verify for your exact hardware.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on the frame.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mount bolts. An unsupported engine can drop and pinch fingers.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block on the jack pad so you don’t crack the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool; the Y-pipe/catalyst area can burn you.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 12-18 in long)
• Socket set: 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Extensions: 3", 6", 12"
• Universal swivel joint (3/8")
• Combination wrenches: 15mm, 16mm, 18mm
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar (12-18 in)
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Raise the front of your Wrangler and set it securely on jack stands at the frame.
• 🧰 If equipped, remove any front skid plates that block access. Use a 18mm socket (common) and set bolts aside by location.
• 🧰 Choose your support method:
  • Engine support bar (specialty): spans the fenders and holds the engine from above (safest access).
  • Floor jack + wood block: supports from below at the oil pan area (use the wood to spread the load).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it per its instructions and tension it until the engine just starts to take weight.
• If using a floor jack, place the wood block on the jack pad and raise it gently until it contacts the oil pan area and begins to support the engine. Lift only enough to take load.

Step 2: Create working room (as needed)

• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
• If a splash shield is in the way, remove clips with a trim clip tool.

Step 3: Remove the left (driver-side) engine mount through-bolt

• Locate the mount at the frame perch and engine bracket on the driver side.
• Use a 18mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the mount through-bolt/nut.
• Use a pry bar to slightly align holes if the bolt binds, then slide the bolt out by hand.

Step 4: Unbolt the left engine mount from the frame/perch and bracket

• Use a 15mm socket and extensions to remove the mount-to-frame fasteners (varies by mount style).
• Use a 15mm or 16mm socket with a universal swivel joint to remove mount-to-engine-bracket fasteners (access is tight).
• Remove the mount. You may need to raise the engine slightly using the floor jack (or tension the engine support bar) to clear the studs.

Step 5: Install the new left engine mount (leave bolts loose at first)

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all fasteners by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Apply medium-strength threadlocker if your hardware is not pre-coated.
• Do not fully tighten yet; you want some movement for alignment.

Step 6: Repeat removal/installation on the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Remove the right-side mount through-bolt using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove mount fasteners with 15mm/16mm sockets, using extensions and a universal swivel joint as needed.
• Install the new right mount and hand-start all fasteners.

Step 7: Align the drivetrain and install both through-bolts

• Slowly raise/lower the engine using the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar) until the through-bolt holes line up.
• Slide each through-bolt in by hand. If it won’t slide, stop and re-align—don’t force it with the nut.

Step 8: Final tighten and torque fasteners

• Torque mount-to-frame fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-engine-bracket fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs).
• Torque each mount through-bolt/nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Remove the engine support (lower the floor jack or release the engine support bar) and confirm the engine sits naturally on the mounts.

Step 9: Reinstall skid plates/shields

• Reinstall any skid plates using the correct socket (commonly 18mm socket).
• Tighten skid plate bolts evenly using a ratchet. If you have factory torque info available, torque to spec.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive engine movement.
• 🧪 With the clutch in, gently blip the throttle and listen for clunks.
• 🧪 Test drive and check for vibration changes, especially on take-off and during shifts.
• 🧪 Recheck mount fasteners for tightness after a short drive. Heat cycles can settle new mounts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.