How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2010 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, fluid refill and bleeding, and safety tips
How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2010 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, fluid refill and bleeding, and safety tips


🔧 Accord - Power Steering Pump Replacement
Your Accord’s power steering pump builds hydraulic pressure so the steering feels light and smooth. Replacing it usually involves draining fluid, removing the drive belt and lines, swapping the pump (and sometimes the pulley), then bleeding air out of the system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the exhaust manifold area can burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you lift it—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Power steering fluid is slippery and flammable—wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Keep fluid off the drive belt and pulleys to prevent belt slip.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep hands/tools clear of the radiator fan area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan
- Turkey baster or fluid suction pump
- Fender cover
- Shop towels
- Metric socket set (8mm-14mm)
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- 14mm combination wrench
- 10mm combination wrench
- 17mm flare-nut wrench
- Long nose pliers
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Serpentine belt tool or long 14mm wrench
- Power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty)
- Funnel
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Power steering pump - Qty: 1
- Power steering pump inlet O-ring - Qty: 1
- Power steering pressure line sealing washers - Qty: 2
- Honda-compatible power steering fluid (PSF) - Qty: 2 quarts
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1 Optional but smart if old/cracked
- Return hose clamp - Qty: 1 Optional if clamp is weak/rusty
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and place a fender cover to protect paint.
- Use a turkey baster to suck as much old fluid out of the power steering reservoir as possible.
- Plan for pulley transfer: some replacement pumps come without the pulley; if yours doesn’t include one, you’ll reuse the old pulley with a pulley puller/installer (a tool that presses the pulley on/off without damage).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Create working room
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the plastic engine cover (if equipped).
- Place a drain pan under the pump area to catch fluid.
Step 2: Drain the system from the return hose
- Use long nose pliers to slide the return-hose clamp back on the hose at the reservoir/pump.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off and aim it into the drain pan.
- Plug the hose with a rag (use shop towels) to reduce mess.
Step 3: Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump
- Use a serpentine belt tool or long 14mm wrench on the belt tensioner and rotate it to relieve tension.
- Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
- Tip: Take a quick photo of belt routing.
Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line (high-pressure fitting)
- Clean around the fitting using shop towels so dirt can’t enter.
- Use a 17mm flare-nut wrench to loosen the pressure line fitting at the pump, then finish by hand.
- Let fluid drain into the drain pan, then cap/cover the line end with a clean towel.
Step 5: Unbolt and remove the pump
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the pump mounting bolts.
- Lift the pump out carefully, keeping it upright to avoid spills.
Step 6: Transfer the pulley (only if your new pump does NOT include one)
- Use a power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to pull the pulley off the old pump.
- Use the same pulley installer to press the pulley onto the new pump until it matches the original pulley position/alignment.
- Tip: Misaligned pulleys squeal and throw belts.
Step 7: Install the new pump and tighten mounting bolts
- Position the pump and start all mounting bolts by hand.
- Use a 12mm socket to snug them, then use a torque wrench to finish: Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the pressure line with new seals
- Install the new sealing parts (new O-ring/washer set as applicable) from the Required Parts list.
- Thread the fitting in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 17mm flare-nut wrench to tighten the fitting: Torque to 34 N·m (25 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the return hose
- Inspect the return hose end for cracking; trim only if needed using a flat-blade screwdriver to help reposition the clamp.
- Slide the hose fully onto the nipple and use long nose pliers to place the clamp back in its original spot.
Step 10: Reinstall the drive belt
- Route the belt correctly and use the serpentine belt tool or long 14mm wrench to rotate the tensioner.
- Slip the belt onto the power steering pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
- Visually confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove.
Step 11: Refill and bleed the power steering system
- Use a funnel to fill the reservoir with Honda-compatible power steering fluid (PSF) to the MAX line.
- With the engine OFF, raise the front end (if needed) using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
- With the engine OFF, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock about 10 times to push air out.
- Top off fluid using the funnel, then start the engine and let it idle.
- Turn lock-to-lock 3–5 more times while watching for bubbles/foam; keep fluid above the MIN line.
- Tip: Foamy fluid means air—keep bleeding.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose.
- Verify the steering is quiet and smooth (no whining) at idle and during a short test drive.
- Recheck fluid level after the test drive and top off with Honda-compatible PSF as needed.
- Inspect the belt for any fluid contamination and wipe pulleys clean with shop towels.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $370-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















