🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (through the tie rod) to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness or clunking, but you’ll need an alignment afterward because it affects toe (the wheel’s pointing angle).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (plus alignment)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support your Accord with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection when separating the joint; parts can pop loose suddenly.
• 🔥 Don’t work near a hot exhaust if you just drove it—let it cool first.
• 🔩 Always install a new cotter pin; never reuse the old one.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the tie rod end on the threads (helps keep alignment close).
• 📏 Plan to get a professional alignment after the repair (recommended every time a tie rod end is replaced).

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.
• Lift the front with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Break loose the lock nut (jam nut)

• Spray the threads and lock nut area with penetrating oil.
• Use a 19mm combination wrench to loosen the tie rod lock nut (the nut right behind the outer tie rod end).
• Don’t fully remove the lock nut yet.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers (use side cutters if it’s stuck).
• Remove the tie rod end castle nut using a 17mm combination wrench.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the tie rod end and the knuckle, then separate the joint per the tool’s method.
• A separator prevents damage to the boot.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) while tension is on the separator to help it release.
• Ball joint separator tool note: it’s a tool designed to pop a tapered joint loose safely.

Step 5: Remove the outer tie rod end and match the install position

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the number of turns it takes to remove it (write it down). Install the new one with the same number of turns to keep toe close.
• Move the lock nut to the same position as before using the 19mm combination wrench and your paint marker reference.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end into the knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut using a 17mm combination wrench, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten slightly more until it lines up (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends over.

Step 7: Tighten the lock nut (jam nut)

• Hold the outer tie rod end in position and tighten the lock nut using a 19mm combination wrench.
• Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• 🧭 Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock with the engine running and confirm nothing binds or clunks.
• 🛣️ Test drive slowly and verify the steering wheel is close to centered and the car tracks straight.
• 🧰 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (tie rod changes affect toe and can destroy tires fast).
• 🔍 Recheck the cotter pin and look for any boot twist or damage after the test drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor) + $100-$160 alignment

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only) + $100-$160 alignment

You Save: $175-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.