🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and lets the wheel turn left/right. Replacing it is straightforward, but your toe alignment will change, so you’ll need an alignment afterward to prevent tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Accord on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall when separating the joint.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks and keep the transmission in 1st gear.
• 🔥 Avoid working on hot brakes/rotors right after driving.
• 🔩 After installation, get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" or 1/2"
• Ratchet 3/8"
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin for tie rod end nut - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end nut and the jam nut threads. Let it soak 5-10 minutes.
• Plan to drive carefully to an alignment shop right after (avoid highway speeds if the steering feels off).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and place the car on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Mark your starting point (to keep alignment close)

• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the jam nut and the tie rod threads.
• Measure from a fixed point on the tie rod end (like the center of the ball stud) to the jam nut using a tape measure, and write it down.
• This helps you install the new one similarly.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten and pull the cotter pin out of the tie rod end stud using needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks, cut and remove it using diagonal cutters.

Step 4: Loosen (but don’t remove) the tie rod end nut

• Use a 17mm wrench to loosen the castle nut a few turns, but leave it on the stud.
• Leaving it on protects the threads when you separate the joint.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator (specialty) between the tie rod end and the knuckle.
• Operate the tool per its design until the stud pops free.
• If needed, use a hammer to tap the side of the knuckle (not the stud) to help release it.
• A sharp tap works better than many light taps.

Step 6: Remove the nut and unthread the old tie rod end

• Remove the castle nut completely using a 17mm wrench.
• Hold the inner tie rod with a 19mm wrench (if needed) and loosen the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Count the exact number of turns as you spin the outer tie rod end off by hand.
• Write the turn count down.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Snug the jam nut against the new tie rod end using a 19mm wrench.

Step 8: Attach the stud to the knuckle and torque fasteners

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle by hand.
• Install the castle nut and tighten using a 17mm wrench, then final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly until it aligns (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.
• Tighten the jam nut using a 19mm wrench: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stand using a floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked; confirm no clunks and the boot isn’t twisted.
• Test drive slowly on a quiet street; the steering wheel should be close to centered and the car should track straight.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment (or at minimum a front toe adjustment) as soon as possible.
• Re-check the cotter pin and the jam nut after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.