Howtoo Logo
2012 Honda Accord
2012 Honda Accord
LX-S - Inline 4 2.4L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2008-2012 Honda Accord

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2008-2012 Honda Accord

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2012 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2012 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Accord, the front suspension uses struts (shock + spring assembly) and the rear uses shocks. Replacing worn struts/shocks restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Quick question: Are you replacing front struts, rear shocks, or all four?


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Accord with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring under high force—use a spring compressor (specialty) if you are transferring the spring. A spring compressor is a tool that squeezes the spring shorter so it can be removed safely.
  • ⚠️ Keep the ABS wire and brake hose from being stretched when the knuckle drops.
  • ⚠️ After front strut replacement, you should get a wheel alignment.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20-200 Nm range)
  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 19mm wrench
  • 17mm wrench
  • 14mm wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Pry bar
  • Hammer
  • Punch
  • Penetrating oil
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers (replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount kit (mount/bearing/bump stop as applicable) - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper shock mount kit (if worn) - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end links (only if worn/loose) - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
  • Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
  • Spray visible suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
  • If you are not using complete “quick strut” assemblies, prepare your spring compressor (specialty) and inspect it for damage before compressing any spring.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

  • Use a floor jack to lift at the proper jacking point, then set the car onto jack stands.
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2 (Front): Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Hold the end link stud with a 17mm wrench (as needed) and remove the nut with a 17mm socket.
  • If it spins, add penetrating oil.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 3 (Front): Free the ABS/brake line brackets from the strut

  • Remove the bracket bolts using a 10mm socket (ABS wire/brake hose brackets on the strut body, depending on layout).
  • Move the lines aside so nothing gets pulled when the knuckle moves.

Step 4 (Front): Separate the damper fork from the strut

  • Remove the damper fork pinch bolt using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
  • Use a pry bar to carefully open the fork slightly if needed, then slide it down off the strut.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) (pinch bolt).

Step 5 (Front): Unbolt the damper fork from the lower control arm

  • Support the lower arm/knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
  • Remove the fork-to-lower-arm bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 6 (Front): Remove the strut mount nuts and take out the strut

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove the three top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Hold the strut so it doesn’t fall, then remove it out through the wheel well.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) (strut mount nuts).

Step 7 (Front): Transfer spring (ONLY if not using complete strut assemblies)

  • Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
  • Remove the strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft (as required by your kit).
  • Move the spring and upper mount to the new strut in the same orientation, then slowly release the compressors.
  • Double-check spring ends seat in pockets.

Step 8 (Front): Reinstall the strut and fork

  • Position the strut into the tower and hand-thread the three nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the damper fork onto the strut and install the pinch bolt using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
  • Install the fork-to-lower-arm bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque fasteners: 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) (top nuts), 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) (pinch bolt), 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) (fork-to-arm bolt).

Step 9 (Front): Reattach brackets and sway link

  • Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque: 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) (end link nut).

Step 10 (Rear): Access the upper shock mount nuts

  • Open the trunk.
  • Remove the trunk side trim as needed using a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver to access the rear shock upper mount area.

Step 11 (Rear): Remove the lower shock bolt

  • Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 12 (Rear): Remove the upper mount nuts and remove the shock

  • Remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket, then pull the shock out.
  • Reinstall spec: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) (upper mount nuts).

Step 13 (Rear): Install the new shock

  • Install the shock into the upper mount first and hand-thread the nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the lower mount and install the bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque fasteners: 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) (upper nuts), 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) (lower bolt).

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Do a short test drive: listen for clunks, verify steering feels normal, and confirm braking is stable.
  • Re-check that ABS/brake line brackets are secure and not rubbing the tire.
  • Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible if you replaced front struts.
  • After 50–100 km, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench: 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹12,000-₹30,000 (parts + labor, front + rear typical range in Panipat area)

DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹20,000 (parts only, depends on brands and whether you do mounts/links)

You Save: ₹6,000-₹10,000+ by doing it yourself!

Local labor varies; shops commonly quote 4-6 hours for all four.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn