How to Replace the Thermostat Housing Assembly on a 2016 INFINITI Q50 (2.0L Turbo)
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with required tools, parts list, coolant drain/refill, and bleeding tips
How to Replace the Thermostat Housing Assembly on a 2016 INFINITI Q50 (2.0L Turbo)
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with required tools, parts list, coolant drain/refill, and bleeding tips


Assumption: Your Q50 uses the 2.0L turbo (M274-based) thermostat integrated in a housing at the front of the engine.
🔧 Q50 - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls engine temperature by regulating coolant flow. If it sticks open you may get slow warm-up and poor heat; if it sticks closed you can overheat. This job involves draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; let it cool fully.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—wear gloves and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the radiator fan area; it can move unexpectedly on some cars.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool
- Hose clamp pliers
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Socket set (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm)
- E-Torx socket set (E8, E10)
- Torx bit set (T20, T25, T30)
- Extension set (3" and 6")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Coolant vacuum fill tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat assembly (thermostat + housing seal) - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (OEM-compatible) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (as needed)
- New hose clamps (worm-gear or OEM-style) - Qty: 2-4 (as needed)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (radiator hoses should feel cool to the touch).
- Set the climate control to HOT (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core during bleeding).
- Have a plan for used coolant disposal (most parts stores accept it).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front of the car and remove the lower splash shield
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jack point, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the underbody splash shield fasteners.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below thermostat level
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap (only if fully cool).
- Use a flathead screwdriver (or appropriate tool for the drain cock style) to open the radiator drain and drain coolant.
- Drain 1–2 gallons; you don’t need it empty.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting for access
- Open the hood and remove the engine cover (pull up firmly by hand).
- Use a flathead screwdriver and/or 8mm socket to loosen intake hose clamps.
- Remove intake tube(s) as needed to access the front of the engine near the coolant outlet/thermostat housing.
Step 4: Identify and disconnect thermostat housing hoses
- Locate the thermostat housing at the front of the engine where large coolant hoses meet the engine.
- Use hose clamp pliers to slide spring clamps back on each hose. (Hose clamp pliers are pliers made to squeeze and hold spring clamps open.)
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off. Use a pick tool carefully if it’s stuck, but do not gouge the plastic housing.
- Expect some coolant spill—keep the drain pan positioned underneath.
Step 5: Unplug any electrical connector(s) on the thermostat assembly
- Press the lock tab and unplug the connector by hand; use a pick tool only to lift the lock if needed.
- Don’t pull on the wires—pull on the connector body.
Step 6: Remove the thermostat housing bolts and remove the assembly
- Use a ratchet (3/8"), extension set (3" and 6"), and E-Torx socket (E8 or E10) (or 10mm socket, depending on fastener type) to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Remove the thermostat assembly from the engine.
- Clean the mating surface with a clean rag; use a pick tool only to remove stuck seal material gently.
Step 7: Install the new thermostat assembly
- Confirm the new thermostat housing seal is installed and seated correctly.
- Position the new thermostat assembly onto the engine.
- Start all bolts by hand, then snug them evenly using a ratchet (3/8").
- Tighten using a torque wrench (3/8") and Torque to factory spec (bolt size varies by housing version).
Step 8: Reconnect hoses and electrical connector(s)
- Reinstall coolant hoses fully seated on their ports.
- Use hose clamp pliers to return clamps to their original positions.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 9: Reinstall intake parts and splash shield
- Reinstall intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver and/or 8mm socket.
- Reinstall the lower splash shield using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Lower the car using the floor jack.
Step 10: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- If using a coolant vacuum fill tool (specialty), fill per the tool instructions (this minimizes air pockets).
- If filling normally, use a funnel and slowly fill the reservoir with the correct engine coolant (OEM-compatible).
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to HOT. Watch the temperature gauge.
- As the engine warms up, add coolant as the level drops. Do not let the reservoir run empty.
- Once warm, check for heat from the vents and verify no leaks at the thermostat and hose connections.
✅ After Repair
- Road test 10–15 minutes, monitoring the temperature gauge for normal operation.
- After a full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off as needed using a funnel.
- Inspect for leaks again at the thermostat housing and hose joints.
- If you get overheating, no cabin heat, or gurgling noises, shut down and re-bleed (air is still trapped).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $370-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















