🔧 CR-V - Engine Oil & Filter Change

This service replaces old engine oil and the oil filter in your CR-V to keep the turbocharged engine protected and running smoothly. You’ll drain the old oil, swap the filter, then refill with fresh oil to the correct level.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the front of your CR-V with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot; let the engine cool 15–30 minutes after driving.
• ⚠️ Used engine oil is toxic; avoid skin contact and dispose of it at a recycling center.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake firmly set and chock the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine with no oil in it or with the drain plug removed.
• Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 17mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Oil filter cup wrench 65mm 14-flute (specialty)
• 🛠️ Oil drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🛠️ Funnel (medium size)
• 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
• 🛠️ Disposable gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver
• 🛠️ Plastic trim clip tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (API SN or later) - Qty: 4 quarts
• 🔩 Engine oil filter (for 1.5L turbo) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Engine oil drain plug crush washer (17mm Honda type) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Gloves (nitrile) - Qty: 1 box
• 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your CR-V on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool for at least 15 minutes so the oil is warm but not scalding. Warm oil drains faster.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t need to crawl out mid-job.
• Locate the hood release inside the cabin and the safety catch under the hood so you can open and support the hood with the prop rod.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the front

• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center jacking point (just behind the front bumper on the subframe crossmember).
• Pump the jack until the front wheels are off the ground by a few inches.
• Place two jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the left and right front pinch welds (reinforced seams under the doors).
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands with the floor jack, then gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield access

• Slide the oil drain pan under the engine area first in case of drips.
• Use a plastic trim clip tool (specialty) or flathead screwdriver to carefully pop out the plastic clips on the small access cover under the engine (if equipped on your CR-V).
• Lower the cover and set it aside somewhere clean.

Step 3: Loosen the oil filler cap

• Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine cover.
• Twist the cap counterclockwise by hand to loosen it, but leave it resting in place. This helps the oil drain faster.

Step 4: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the oil drain pan directly under the engine oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan (toward the rear of the engine).
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to carefully loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
• Once loose, finish removing the plug by hand and let the oil flow into the pan. Be ready, it comes out quickly.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to a drip; this usually takes 5–10 minutes.
• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing surface with a shop rag.

Step 5: Install new crush washer and reinstall drain plug

• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug; it may be stuck, so slide it off with fingers or the flathead screwdriver gently.
• Install the new engine oil drain plug crush washer onto the plug, flat side toward the oil pan.
• Thread the drain plug back into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten; the pan is aluminum.

Step 6: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter, which is mounted on the front side of the engine block (toward the radiator, low down).
• Place a rag or cardboard to catch any splashes.
• Fit the oil filter cup wrench 65mm 14-flute (specialty) onto the filter, attach the 3/8" drive ratchet, and turn counterclockwise to loosen it.
• Once loose, spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright to minimize spills.
• Let any remaining oil drain from the filter mounting area into the pan.

Step 7: Prepare and install the new oil filter

• Take the new engine oil filter out of its box.
• Dip a clean finger into fresh 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter. This helps sealing and removal.
• Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a shop rag to remove any old oil and ensure the old gasket is not stuck there.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket just makes contact with the mounting surface.
• Then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand. If using the oil filter cup wrench 65mm 14-flute (specialty) and 3/8" drive torque wrench, tighten to about 12–16 Nm (9–12 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall splash shield access cover

• Reposition the lower access cover under the engine.
• Push the plastic clips back into place by hand, or gently with the plastic trim clip tool (specialty) if needed.

Step 9: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to carefully lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle until all four wheels are on the ground.

Step 10: Refill with fresh engine oil

• Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine completely.
• Place the funnel in the filler opening.
• Pour in about 3.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil to start (your 1.5L turbo typically takes about 3.7 quarts with filter).
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand and snug it down.

Step 11: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• While it runs, look under the front of your CR-V with a flashlight to check around the drain plug and oil filter for any drips.
• If you see leaks, shut off the engine and gently tighten the leaking part using the appropriate tool (either the 17mm socket or the oil filter cup wrench 65mm 14-flute (specialty)).
• Shut off the engine and wait about 5 minutes to let the oil settle in the oil pan.

Step 12: Check and adjust the oil level

• Pull the engine oil dipstick out, wipe it clean with a shop rag, then reinsert it fully and pull it out again.
• The oil level should be between the “LOW” and “FULL” marks, ideally near “FULL.”
• If it is low, add oil through the funnel in small amounts (about 100–150 ml at a time), then recheck the dipstick.
• Do not overfill; stop at the full mark.

Step 13: Reset the maintenance minder (oil life)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine can be off).
• On the steering wheel, use the info buttons to navigate the display to the oil life screen.
• Press and hold the ENTER or OK button until the oil life reset menu appears.
• Select Oil Life and confirm reset to 100% by pressing ENTER/OK again. Menu wording can vary slightly.

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✅ After Repair

• Check under your CR-V again after your first short drive to confirm there are no oil leaks.
• Verify the oil level on the dipstick once more the next morning, topping up if needed.
• Make a note of the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due (follow Honda’s Maintenance Minder or around 5,000–7,500 miles/8,000–12,000 km for normal use).
• Dispose of the used oil and old filter at a proper recycling or collection center; never pour oil on the ground or in drains.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$80 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.